Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

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geoberni
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby geoberni » Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:07 pm

Hi Phil
I'm in agreement with you, except one small regard... I don't at the moment know the position of the current hole relative to the slot that should be there. It might be anywhere on the overall length.
I intend to get some Vernier Plates and then mark off the relative top and bottom of the slot in relation to the top and bottom holes on the vernier plate.

Can you confirm my understanding of the instruction in the manual, that if I follow the details in Section K1 there will be no tension on the tension bar and I can hopefully slide the adjuster arm forward to enable more access to grind the nut off?
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philthehill
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby philthehill » Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:42 pm

You do not have to be concerned about the position of the slot as the position of the slot is set by the rear lever arm vernier plate bolt hole which you already have in place so the slot is centred on the existing bolt hole.
As you need to raise the suspension - grinding the existing hole downwards for the vernier plate bolt is what is required. There is no need to grind the hole upwards. The amount of downward grinding will be determined by the vernier plate series of holes. When the rear vernier plate arm is loose it moves in an arc you will need to grind the hole downwards with a slight angle towards the centre of the car, The slot does not have to be a tight fit to the bolt as the vernier plate holds it all correct with a large washer covering the rear of the slot. You may even find that you need to fit one or more washers between the rear arm and vernier plate to keep the rear arm central on the rear splines of the torsion bar.

The 'C' setting has to be done with no load on the front suspension i.e. free of the swivel.
When you have set the vernier plate but not fully tightened the bolts including the torsion bar rear spigot nut - place a jack under the outer ends of the thick arm and jack up the arm, tighten the torsion bar rear bolts and spigot nut. remove the jack and see if the 'C' measurement has been maintained. Adjust the vernier plate if necessary until measurement 'C' is maintained.
There is no need to do the task on a level surface as it is the difference between the inner and outer pivot points you need to determine and that does not require level ground.

Phil


geoberni
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby geoberni » Fri Aug 16, 2019 2:32 pm

Cheers Phil
I was looking at the CW site https://www.morrisminor.org.uk/parts/33 ... e-adjuster
and it mentions there a measurement of 25.5" for the front wheel arch.
I've pretty much got that on the Offside, the Nearside is more like 24.5".
I'm assuming raising the Nearside around an inch will cause a very slight drop on the Offside, or would it not be noticeable?

For completeness of the work, and sheer professional pride, I'm looking to restore both sides to the correct configuration.
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philthehill
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby philthehill » Fri Aug 16, 2019 3:36 pm

Use the BMC wksp manual setting dimension 'C' as not all wings are set the same especially if they have been replaced in the past.
The measurement in your link is only a rough guide.
Hardly noticeable. But check after adjustment of the opposite side.

Completeness and professional pride - now that is what I like to hear :D :D :D


RobThomas
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby RobThomas » Sun Aug 18, 2019 8:52 am

My idea to 'drop one spline and re-drill' was just a quick way to move the hole in the crossmember to gain that extra inch. If you only moved the rear arm enough to gain an extra inch without shifting by a spline then you'd probably just find the new hole 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the old hole. Hope this makes sense. Just thought it might be a quick solution whilst you look for the correct parts.
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les
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby les » Sun Aug 18, 2019 9:17 am

Good luck with the alignment, and liking your sentiments!


geoberni
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby geoberni » Sun Aug 18, 2019 9:52 am

RobThomas wrote:
Sun Aug 18, 2019 8:52 am
My idea to 'drop one spline and re-drill' was just a quick way to move the hole in the crossmember to gain that extra inch. If you only moved the rear arm enough to gain an extra inch without shifting by a spline then you'd probably just find the new hole 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the old hole. Hope this makes sense. Just thought it might be a quick solution whilst you look for the correct parts.
Hi Rob
My thoughts on doing it without the plates was that if I moved the low side by one spline, it would give me a 1.5 inch increase as stated in the manual section K1 , but the bolt would go back in the same hole.
That's why I'm a little confused by your idea of doing both, because I feel that would do what you've said you're trying to avoid, have a half a hole overlap.

I've already got all the required parts coming so just need to find the time to do it in my busy life; it needs to be done on the drive in the nice weather as it's easier than trying to do it in the confines of the garage over the winter.
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RobThomas
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby RobThomas » Sun Aug 18, 2019 10:49 am

Ah, OK. That makes sense. I hadn't twigged that 1 spline by itself would do what you need. :D
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geoberni
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Re: Torsion Bar Adjuster Plate - Aghhhhh!!!!!

Postby geoberni » Sun Aug 18, 2019 12:51 pm

RobThomas wrote:
Sun Aug 18, 2019 10:49 am
Ah, OK. That makes sense. I hadn't twigged that 1 spline by itself would do what you need. :D
I wish we had a decent selection of Smilies.... hopefully one day we'll get the revamped Forums.
In the meantime.....
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