Morris Minor Owners Club

Thanks a lot for the explanation...….I'll open the heater valve tomorrow morning then and hope I'm nice and toasty when I take the car out

I've now got my Temp Gauge and Sender calibrated together, but when first fitted the gauge read quite hot, and would climb by a couple of needle widths when over 40/45mph. I found that putting the blower on dropped it back that couple of needle widths

Well I think it’s safe to say that my heater motor is totally US.
Whilst in the car on Friday I think I left the motor on (but not moving) as on Sunday when I meant to take the thing to Stratford, the battery was totally dead, so I’ll switch the thing off all together.

My heater does have what appears to be ducting that goes to the floor and exits just underneath the battery tray. However the flap at the bottom of this is rusted open/closed so I’m going to whip out the whole lot, change the heater valve to the tap, de-rust the entire things and flush it all out.

The heater fan should only take current through the ignition, so leaving the heater fan "on" when the car is parked up shouldn't matter.
If your car is fitted with the round type heater and a heater control valve on the cylinder head, that is not am original combination.
All cars with the round heater were equipped with the brass tap originally.
The ducting is there to draw fresh air into the car from below and the flap should be controlled by a cable fitted to the parcel shelf. If this is all corroded up, it should be fairly easy to free it all up with some penetrating oil.

Right oh, I’ll start searching for the reason for the flat battery.
I’m hunting for a tap to replace the knackered valve.

Mine is a Tudor and the motor in it is controlled by the separate rheostat on the left of the Speedo.

Looks good, how good is it at demisting though?
I like the round Smiths heaters and have always been perfectly happy with the amount of heat the put into the car itself, however the fan doesn't seem to push much up to the screen and they can take forever to clear it, so I would imagine flaps closing off the heat into the cabin would improve this somewhat.

How efficient is that computer fan?

Also I've found this (link below), what do you think, should I bid?
I have seen these Land Rover ones before and they look a straight swap but are they worth it?
https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=ht ... mrc&uact=8
Best wishes,
Mike.

jagnut66 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:09 pm

Mine is a Tudor and the motor in it is controlled by the separate rheostat on the left of the Speedo.

Looks good, how good is it at demisting though?

Mike.

Not bad, there's quite a flow of air from the blower and with the flaps shut it's all going to the screens.

Not bad, there's quite a flow of air from the blower and with the flaps shut it's all going to the screens.

Do you have its model number? It's an attractive period aftermarket item and I will keep an eye out for one, if they're not prohibitively expensive these days.
Best wishes,
Mike.

Sorry, the only detail on it that I can find is the plate on the front.
I suspect it was only fitted during Basil's rebuild about 20 years ago or perhaps a little before that because
a) it looks pristine as though it's been professionally refurbished or was original old stock
b) the hoses look brand new and have miniscule wear despite there being no protection around the metalwork holes they go through (I'll be sorting that out soon)
c) the jubilee clips securing the hoses are dated 1991 The type is mentioned on this article http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/car-heaters.htm

As a note, why are the heater taps so expensive? New they are £30 and just for an old tap body, it’s £18.
All I want in an old one

I think the ones for early Land Rovers are the same, but you would need to check, £20 new:

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/serie ... ables.html

ill see if the club spares dept has one kicking about.

As odd as it sound, but how do i get in contact with them?
Im a club member and i have set up a members only account via the website, i am just waiting for it to be activated.

The type is mentioned on this article http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/car-heaters.htm
[/quote]

It was interesting to read that the K-L Monitor was made for the Thermal-syphon type of cooling System that my Austin 8 has. I am trying to find out how it works, if anyone has seen a technical description ???

cadetchris wrote: ↑Wed Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm ill see if the club spares dept has one kicking about.

As odd as it sound, but how do i get in contact with them?
Im a club member and i have set up a members only account via the website, i am just waiting for it to be activated.

Contact Bryan Gostling by email on bryan.gostling@mmoc.org.uk

cadetchris wrote: ↑Tue Sep 17, 2019 9:30 pm As a note, why are the heater taps so expensive? New they are £30 and just for an old tap body, it’s £18.
All I want in an old one

Well firstly, it's 'supply and demand'...

Where are you looking?
They're about £18-£20, inc vat (and shipping if you look around enough), including regular suppliers and ebay.
Search 88G588 on ebay
CW and ESM both have new taps for around £17.35
ANG are around £2 more

They're only in the £30 mark if you want all the fixing studs, etc

Since we've a tangent branched off about heater taps, my heater tap is a bit of a tall beast.

I'm assuming this is an original fit rather than the shorter one that everyone sells these days?

Nice ones still available, for a price!
https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/clayton ... th-demist/

And the nice Smiths one I included a link for earlier is now creeping out of my range too
Not going to have much luck finding one for a reasonable price methinks...................
C'est la vie...........
Best wishes,
Mike.

I just seen the prices of a replacement motor for the heater
I’ll google how to test and repair a motor

As I mentioned above the motor is going for free to whoever covers the postage.
Regards
Declan

Pm sent Declan