engine rebuild won't start

[gleetherapy]

Hello MMOC. This is my first rebuild and i have loved it. With regret I have to ask for help - already read as many previous posts as possible but still won't start.
Engine rebuild included: new pistons and rings, new valve guides and valves and reseated by an engineering workshop, new oil pump. I stripped the carb and cleaned and checked. New dizzy cap and leads. New starter motor.
I am currently getting a spark on all plugs and they smell of petrol when I remove them. I'm using a gravity feed for the fuel as its out of the van on a trolley. I check the timing - dizzy arm points to 1 oclock when piston no1 is at TDC - with 1&2 rockers closed. The engine spins over and I even had some flames coming out of the exhaust at one point but it just won't start. I hope that's enough information for starters. Just seen that bmcecosse is no longer with us - very sad news indeed as I always loved his posts.

[alanworland]

Is the valve timing correct?
My first engine rebuild (confessions of an embarrased minor owner when I was in my teens) I had the timing out by one tooth and it wouldn't start.

Alan

[ampwhu]

Check the dizzy isn't 180 deg out.

[gleetherapy]

I'm confused:
Timing chain marks line up, cylinder 1 is TDC and both valves are closed. The distributor arm points to 1 o'clock (all leads are correct - after quadruple check at least. So can the distributor still be 180 degrees out?
I have tried moving the distributor to adjust timing.

[philthehill]

I suspect that you have the ignition timing way out.

Pull the distributer and check the distributor drive is in its right position.
See BMC wksp man section A.A. 28 for the correct fitting procedure. Note: The procedure requires No: 4 cylinder to be at TDC on its compression stroke.
Take care not to drop the distributer drive into the sump if it has to be pulled.

[gleetherapy]

Thanks Philthehil. So now I have #4 TDC and the markers on the canshaft cog and cdrankshaft are no longer lining up I guess I have to remove the timing chain etc and refit so they do? Then start all over re the distributor?
Many Thanks G

[philthehill]

So long as you fitted the timing gear marks in line when you assembled the engine you will be ok as that is the basic setting.

So I would advise that you do not do anything about the timing gear marks at the moment.

Set the distributer drive as per the manual, fit the distributer and then try and start the engine.

[simmitc]

Sometimes it's easiest to go back to very basic methods: Remove the spark plugs. Stick your thumb over the No.1 plug hole (1 is nearest the water pump. I'm sure that you know that, but I did once meet someopne who thought that they numbered the other way) and then turn the engine over until you feel compression. Continue turning slowly to bring the piston close to TDC. Now check the distributor to see where the rotar arm is pointing and make sure that the correct lead goes to No. 1 plug. Refit the other leads remebering that it's 1-3-4-2 anticlockwise.

The dizzy is keyed to prevent it being fitted 180 degrees out. As long as the valve timing is OK, then you will get compression, and it doesn't matter where the dizzy is pointing, just so long the leads go to the correct cylinder. You can always adjust the position if you want a factory "look", but it is not important to get the engine running.

[ampwhu]

You could have left the dizzy alone and just swapped the leads over opposite what they are. Basically 180 degrees .

[philthehill]

Correct in that the dizzy has an offset key at the bottom to ensure that it is correctly aligned with the distributer drive shaft which runs off the camshaft. But if the distributer drive shaft has not been fitted as per the manual no matter how hard you try the ignition setting will not be correct.
So:-
Stage 1. Make sure that the timing gear marks are aligned,

Stage 2. Make sure that the distributer drive shaft is correctly aligned as per the manual.

Stage 3. Fit distributer - making sure that the bottom of the distributer fits into the offset in the top of the distributer drive shaft from the
camshaft.

Stage 4. Turn distributer body to align rotor arm with No: 1 distributer cap segment.

Stage 5. Fit plug leads starting at No: 1 then No: 3, No: 4 and then No: 4.

Stage 6. Switch on ignition and start the engine.

[gleetherapy]

Hello
Here's where I am at:
Timing chain marks line up with the crankshaft key at TDC and the camshaft at 1 oclock. This puts the valves on #1 closed and #4 open (think this is my issue)
So when I put in the distributor drive with the small off set to the front the distributor only goes on with the arm pointing to 7 oclock.
I think I know my next move but would like advice as I might be extremely wrong about that.
Thank you for your patience.
Many Thanks
Gary

[kennatt]

turn dizzy till the rotar arm points at the lead for no one

[simmitc]

Or leave it where it is and rearrange the leads

[gleetherapy]

My gratitude to you all. It is now up and running - on the bench. Never heard one run without a silencer before so that made me jump a bit but then attached one and it sounds awesome.
I don't quite understand how I could never get the rotar arm to point to 1 o'clock - managed to get it to point to 4, 7 and 11. I settled for 7 in the end and tried that but still wouldn't run until I set up number one lead in the opposite position and then it started first time. Long live the Morris Minor!!!!!

[philthehill]

Well done.

I used to run my Minor on the track in the 1970s without a silencer and it sounded 'awesome' too.

The MSA regs now require the silencer noise levels to be at a certain level.

The exhaust noise is quieter but it is the SC gears of the gearbox that now make the noise. Sounds like a supercharger on full throat.

Phil