Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)

[philthehill]

David Manners..............Out of Stock.
Charles Ware................Not listed ???
ESM.............................Out of Stock.

Here are some contact numbers:-
South Devon......................07918715039
Tom Roy...........................01642723400
Minor parts of Oxford.........01993830349
Chertsey Minors................01932568822
Minor Services..................01353662485
Sparesman.......................07831574495
Moss Europe....................01274539999
WRC...............................01422881221
LMG Kent Ltd..................02083034811/2593
J H Evans.......................07811578936
Andrew Eggleton,,,,,,,,,,,,01225868799

So far I have been unable to find a new or reconditioned brake pedal.

[blue_cortina]

So far I have been unable to find a new or reconditioned brake pedal.

Thank You !

[Chipper]

I had a similar problem with a seized and partially loosened crossmember bolt on my 1970 Traveller, typically, the awkward to get to one underneath the MC, of course.

I actually left it like that for some years, but in the end got sick of seeing it dangling about every time I looked under the car, so decided to have a bash at removing it.

In the end , I managed to unscrew it by giving it a liberal dousing of WD40 and other oils, leaving it all to soak for a few days and by wiggling in a trim tool with a bend in the end on the captive nut side, it held the nut just enough (it took several attempts, mind you) for me to gradually ease out the stuck bolt; it's best to work them in and out, rather than trying to undo in one go.

I was then able to clean out the thread, and lubricate it thoroughly to enable the bolt to be replaced.

In your case though, I would probably replace the MC and repair the chassis leg, etc. for peace of mind.

[blue_cortina]

In your case though, I would probably replace the MC and repair the chassis leg, etc. for peace of mind.

Yes, agreed!

[les]

This is a typical master cylinder for comparison

2D23A2B2-C74D-44C7-BD71-9C2A6650AE05.jpeg (47.46 KiB) Viewed 1673 times

[blue_cortina]

Thanks for the MC picture - When ours is out I'll take a photo and compare.

So some more progress tonight...

I've undone the nut on the outside and removed the clutch pedal and the pivot spindle to release the brake pedal. The brake pedal had a fair amount of movement on its pivot, too much for my liking. There was a spacer between the brake pedal and the left hand side of the box section.

Comparing the brake pedal to the one posted earlier it certainly looks like an original with a slab of metal welded on. I think its conceivable to angle grind the offending part of the added slab and then use it as it was originally intended. There is a lug for the return spring inside the box section but I didn't get a photo of that. Below are photos of the brake pedal and clutch pedal pivot shaft for your enjoyment!

The clutch pedal pivot shaft (or whatever its meant to be called) looks pretty worn to me.

[philthehill]

That clutch pedal/shaft is worn out and needs to be replaced.
The additional piece of metal on the brake pedal can be ground off and the pedal straightened.
It is rare for the brake pedal bushes to wear and you may get away with just replacing the clutch pedal/shaft.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ew-p829562
In stock too.

The chassis rail bushes can be replaced but you may need to ream (5/8") them to suit the shaft.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ft-p829561

[kevin s]

That clutch pedal/shaft is worn out and needs to be replaced.
The additional piece of metal on the brake pedal can be ground off and the pedal straightened.
It is rare for the brake pedal bushes to wear and you may get away with just replacing the clutch pedal/shaft.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ew-p829562
In stock too.

The chassis rail bushes can be replaced but you may need to ream (5/8") them to suit the shaft.
https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ft-p829561

I think the picture above shows the brake pedal bush has had it as well?

I had to do much the same on ours, new bushes, and manufactured a new shaft to press / weld into the clutch pedal, makes a big difference to the pedal feel.

A servo on the front circuit only is fine if the brakes have been converted to discs and dual circuit, but shouldn't be done on a single circuit system if the drums are left as standard it will mess up the balance.

[philthehill]

If the boss of the brake pedal pivot is not excessively worn (enlarging the picture the boss looks to be salvageable) the old bushes can be removed and replaced with two of the available chassis rail bushes (link above) and reaming them out to 5/8" I,D. At least it will overcome the non availability of a reconditioned brake pedal.

[blue_cortina]

Ok - think this is starting to make sense. One thing I am unclear about is how many of these I need to order?

https://www.morrisminorspares.com/clutc ... ft-p829561

2 for the brake pedal boss?
1 for each of the chassis guide rails?

So 4 in total ?

Also not used a reamer before but I think I know what you mean - can you advise on what I should get ?

[ManyMinors]

The master cylinder you have, looks like one of the cheap "pattern" ones commonly available. They have that square top to the filler cap.
I would have thought that a ring around all the Morris Minor specialists in Minor Matters would find you a decent secondhand brake pedal without any problem.
The whole point of running a Minor is the excellent availability of spare parts! Sometimes you have to do a bit of old fashioned searching rather than simply looking on ebay. Cast you mind back........How did you manage before the internet?!

[les]

Exchange & Mart ! Every Thursday morning my dad was in the paper shop first thing.

[philthehill]

You will need four of the bushes.

A long 5/8" O.D. strait shank spiral flute reamer is what you want.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSS-Hand-Rea ... Sw2XFUcCnw

Once the first bush has been done the straight shank will rest in the first bush and help guide the reamer through the second bush, especially useful for the chassis leg bushes..

Here is a cheaper 5/8" reamer but it has a Morse Taper shank which whilst useable is not so good at getting the two chassis leg bushes reamed in line.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-8-Reamer-U ... SwmzBfKW9k

[ManyMinors]

Exchange & Mart ! Every Thursday morning my dad was in the paper shop first thing.

Haha, I remember doing that too Les! I bought a few cars and bits and pieces through E&M ads years ago.

[les]

You may have beaten me to a bargain or two!!

[philthehill]

The parts for sale section in the Car & Car Conversions magazine.
Having the internet makes sourcing parts so much easier unless of course you want a Minor brake pedal.

[liammonty]

The parts for sale section in the Car & Car Conversions magazine.
Having the internet makes sourcing parts so much easier unless of course you want a Minor brake pedal.

Which was my point regarding the numerous specialists beyond the 3 or so that people seem to use 99% of the time. Now that you have helpfully listed the numbers of the smaller traders, Phil (who often don’t have the resources to provide exhaustive stock lists on line) I’m sure the OP will be able to find the elusive pedal

[blue_cortina]

Sometimes you have to do a bit of old fashioned searching rather than simply looking on ebay. Cast you mind back........How did you manage before the internet?!

Had internet since 1995 - can't remember what I did before then - Think mostly went round all the local breakers yards, most of them that I visited had long since gone

[blue_cortina]

You will need four of the bushes.
A long 5/8" O.D. strait shank spiral flute reamer is what you want.

Thanks !

[blue_cortina]

Progress today:
Parts ordered
Reamer ordered
Brake pedal beginning to look like it should and slightly straighter. I may as well clean it up and paint it while its out
(btw the socket in the photo is the one used used to undo the steering wheel nut)