Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

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nam
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby nam » Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:00 am

Thanks, my plan of action is drain the gearbox, un-do the engine pull it out, while supporting the front of the gearbox with an axle stand or similar. Then pull out gearbox. Hopefully that will make the car so light I can do what I want with it.
1957 Morris Minor 1000. 4 door saloon restoration back on!

Mark Wilson
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby Mark Wilson » Thu Oct 29, 2015 12:32 pm

Came across these photos and thought they might help you envisage what you need to restore.

1) Nearly as bad as yours! You can see the 2mm sheet with angled flange I replaced the front of the seat box with. The junction between the curved section and the sill step and the seat box is now fully welded up. (Ignore the Traveller strengthening angle)

[frame]Image[/frame]

2) Repair in progress to the angled flange to rear part of the seat box

[frame]Image[/frame]

3) Side view of curved chassis repair with hanger plate attached

[frame]Image[/frame]

4) Bottom view showing plug welds to flanges
[frame]Image[/frame]

5) Completed area prior to grinding. Hope you like my attempt at profiling the panel below the seat box!

[frame]Image[/frame]

nam
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby nam » Thu Oct 29, 2015 2:10 pm

Wow, excellent pictures and a great help in visualising things.

So pictures 1 and 2 show where the back of the rear seat meets the angle of the spring hanger late. So youu put some strength in there.

Don'y fully understand picture 3 but 4 and 5 make total sense. So you just overlapped the panels under the rear footwell box and rear underboot metel and seam welded. And the plug welds under the spring hanger plate went into a curved chassis section that you made to support it from as many areas as possible. Basically strength all over as much as possible.

All look's great! :P
1957 Morris Minor 1000. 4 door saloon restoration back on!

Mark Wilson
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby Mark Wilson » Thu Oct 29, 2015 2:52 pm

Picture 3 is looking from the top with my trav on its side, so a bit confusing! The folded down edges to the right are the outer edges of the hanger plate, and you are looking towards the B post and sill sections.

The floor internally sits on the flange at the bottom of the seat box front, with plug welds from inside. I've trimmed the front of the hanger plate to finish underneath this flange, where it is plug welded, and the seam weld is just to tidy up the joint between the hanger plate, seat box flange and the floor panel. (I used the same floor panel as you, but cut off the vertical sections.) All other joints are butt welded, not lapped.

I haven't really "added" any strength - the curved chassis and the seat box flanges are just restored to their former shape, and the plug welds are all replacing the original spot welds. So hopefully as strong as Sir Alec intended......

Redmoggy
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby Redmoggy » Thu Oct 29, 2015 5:47 pm

Not much to add to what Mark has posted. He is on the money.

When I did a similar repair my seat base had been cut for speakers so I removed it.

Image

You can see the curved chassis section Mark mentions that needs to be reinstated to give the shell required strength.

Image

Repaired, I was a bit lazy and chose to stitch weld instead of plug welding.

Image

New seat box.

Either way in order to return strength to shell you should be rebuilding each part as the car was designed. Simply welding patches on patches will not achieve this.

Regards
Rod

nam
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby nam » Thu Oct 29, 2015 8:58 pm

Great pictures, well I didn't know what a plug weld was till earlier so something to start practising. I believe I understand now, I need to make a strip of metal to cover under the seatbox and behind the rear footwell, like your picture @RedMoggy. I don't think I can do it at the front as you have because I have already welded a new floor up to the top, I didn't cut the new panels.

Then build a curved section around the sides following what was there already, make sure when I rest the spring hanger on plate that it is nice and sturdy and the curved section will support it, also a section around the outside edge needs to be built so again the spring hanger on plate sits on it and weld away.

When I get to the point I will of course check back and see i'm doing it right.
1957 Morris Minor 1000. 4 door saloon restoration back on!

nam
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby nam » Tue Jun 30, 2020 9:46 am

Apologies for opening a 5 year old thread, I forgot it was here and found it while searching Google for tips. I have finally flipped the car on it's side and stripped it down. If anyone can give me guidance on my approach it would be very much appreciated. And if anyone is around the Leeds area to even help guide me would be even better and my spring hangers are no longer in a state to be measured! My delivery of all new spring hanger plates, new leaf springs and fixing kit should arrive today. I am replacing the lot but need to build a good base. So with white paper I have shown what I think I should do in terms of welding in new metal to give it strength and for the new spring hanger ends on plates to be welding on. Is my approach correct?
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1957 Morris Minor 1000. 4 door saloon restoration back on!

kevin s
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby kevin s » Sat Jul 04, 2020 9:55 pm

Looking at the photos, for the area where the seat pan joins the rear of the sest crossmember it looks like they are already welded together and you just need to cut off the rusty edge.

At the front you need to weld the floor to the front face of the seat crossmember again cutting all the rusty metal out.

The spring hanger repair section needs to then be welded to the floor and seat pan, it also needs to be welded to the base of the inner sill (this important).

For location the most important point is they are both in the right place longitudinaly, usualy this would be by taking measurements from the centre crossmember or front suspension inboard mountings not sure what state yours are in though.

nam
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby nam » Mon Jul 06, 2020 9:13 pm

I've tidied it up now. I'm thinking to give some new metal in the edges to make it stronger. I need to put a new boxing plate in and then reckon that the spring hanger plate will butt up against it nicely. Im now thinking to build a frame out of wood with the correct measurements which I need to get hold of.
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GavinL
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby GavinL » Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:46 am

Try this thread I started viewtopic.php?f=5&t=68421#p624443 Are your bump stops still in place? My strategy was to make a jig with a straight angle between spring mounts and weld a leg to the bump stop to locate the angle vertically ( see restoration thread for Vanessa)

nam
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Re: Spring hanger front collapsed - repair strategy

Postby nam » Tue Jul 07, 2020 8:31 am

Thanks Gavin, that diagram alignment chart is really good. I will measure up and see where I think it will be welded in. The bump stops and axle etc are still on the car. I've got a full new spring leaf kit to go in.
1957 Morris Minor 1000. 4 door saloon restoration back on!


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