sanding off underseal, priming and painting questions

[xpress]

hi there.

had a bit of a go at sanding off with electric sander under the car.

half an hour did only a small patch of the car but initial observations look promising.

seems that the original underseal or whatever's on there now, is strong stuff and did a good job.

this black underseal is a bit hard to get off. underneath the black underseal, looks like clean bare metal.

i am thinking of just sanding the failed bits of underseal to bare metal where i see rust, and leaving the black underseal and just cleaning the whole thing with jenolite, priming and paint, then waxoyl.

what do you think?

also, the underseal on it originally looks like good stuff, what did they use? doesn't seem like a thick black paint but it's very strong. other stuff such as hammerite with added waxoyl is thick and gunky and this stuff on the morris is smooth finish to it. anyone know what it is and if i can get any more of it? could it just be a chassis black? or enamel paint? how about epoxy primer and paint?

ps:

1 would nitromors/paint stripper and a scraper work better at getting this underseal off? leave it on for a day or two then scrape it all off? any product you recommend?

2 does anyone know if there is an arbour that fits completely over the head and neck so the dust of the underseal doesn't get on the face at all, esp when laying down?

many thanks, that's all i can think of so far.......

1

[xpress]

anyone with any info? i am looking for a beekeeper's stype helmet thing to stop this underseal specks getting in my clothes.

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

Scrape all the loose stuff off as best you can then wire brush all rusty parts. You have a good idea of what you're doing and it sounds fine to me.

I would strongly advise against using rubberized underseal as this traps moisture and actually encourages rust. Also the schultz used for spraying over welding repairs has no rust-proofing qualities whatsoever.

Look at POR-15 products, just did my floors with them and it sets rock hard and goes on in thin coats so you can clearly see the mouldings etc.

Use waxoyl for cavities and box sections but clear the drain holes afterwards.

[bmcecosse]

Sure it's not chassis black paint - rather than underseal?

[xpress]

could be chassic black bmc, is this what moggie hq used back in the day?

also, do i have to get all this to bare metal shiny steel silver, is that what you guys do? phew it's hard work!

or would you just do that to any failed bits and leave the black on if it's not come off because it's hard to get off!

please advise.

[bmcecosse]

It's not an original finish - but many dealers offered a 'Dinitrol' protective treatment which helps considerably. But very possibly an earlier keen owner painted your car with chassis black. I would just treat any damaged areas - and re-apply chassis black after Jenolite treatment.

[xpress]

thanks bmc, what chassis black do you recommend? would hammerite black do it? i have some of that to hand.

[bmcecosse]

Personally I think Hammerite is the work of the Devil........ The 'garden gate' paint sold in Pound shops is excellent stuff! Thick black and sticky . It works!! But I guess if you have a tin of black Ham you may as well try it.

[kennatt]

Iv'e found the best way to get old underseal off is to use a hot air gun just warm it up and then it scrape off with a wall paper type scraper no dust in your face and you can get into all the corners with a smaller scraper.New nitromers stripper is absoulutly usless now,the formulae has had to be changed ,so i'm told ,because of h and s regs.I don't think hammeright is as good as it used to be either. Some parts of my car were done with ham.twenty years ago and still ok,but another bit done a year ago is showing signs of rusting .

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

The 'garden gate' paint sold in Pound shops is excellent stuff! Thick black and sticky . .

Personally I would steer well clear of any car which had underseal applied in thick patches. It needs to be thin so you can see the structure clearly.

Just 'slapping it on' will do more harm than good as it it will create little pockets to trap moisture.

[fiona]

Hi ~ i have a moggie as a work in progress ~ getting the engine sorted first ~ gonna be doing the paint work this summer ~ what do you think of the paint that is meant to get rid of rust as you slap it on ~ is it any good??

Thanks

Fiona

[Dominic]

Hi ~ i have a moggie as a work in progress ~ getting the engine sorted first ~ gonna be doing the paint work this summer ~ what do you think of the paint that is meant to get rid of rust as you slap it on ~ is it any good??

Thanks

Fiona

Fiona, I'd personally think it is as good as say .... anti-wrinkle cream, slimming pills snake oil and the like...
While I freely admit I've never used it, I would however suggest careful preparation, jenolite to remove the rust, then primer and paint would give much better results. I'm sure it is quite useful stuff though - good for increasing the manufacturers profits!
Dom
(who, me? cynical?)

[xpress]

i can't remember rightly but i don't think i can topcoat zinc phosphate primer with hammerite, it sort of wrinkles the finish, and wrinkles are no good for keeping out the elements right? i wonder what i can use as a topcoat, maybe temac but it sort of looks quite shiny and is bitumen based.

[bmcecosse]

Chassis black!!!!!!!!!!! Garden gate paint - it's lovely stuff!

[xpress]

that's hammerite. it has a picture of garden gate on it. it reacts with zinc phosphate primer. not so lovely.

[les]

Lots of tins have pictures of garden gates on them!

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

Try POR-15!!!! It is on the Frost website and you can actually buy a POR-15 Zinc primer spray for it too. I have had good results with POR-15.

It is permanent stuff, even if you clean the brush after use it will set as hard as stone making the brush useless.

They do a chassis paint aswell.

[stag36587]

Sorry if this has been asked before and I've missed it - on bare metal:

Acid etch primer then body filler, filler primer, primer, topcoat

or should body filler go on before etch primer?

[tysonn]

Well they recommend using filler on bare metal so you will just be wasting etch primer over it.Just fill as normal then use your etch on the remaining bare metal.Its thin but its not there to fill imperfections merely to key into the metal before you prime.Then on with your primer filler.