Removing traveller B-pillar bolts

[davidpidge]

Hello all,

Although the timber on the traveller was removed months ago we have only just got round to properly removing the old bolts from the B-pillar which had to be ground off. The n/s is fine but the o/s has two stubborn bolts stuck in the threads. What's the best way to tackle this? We could try and remove the nut from inside the pillar with the bolt inside or is it easier to drill out the old bolt and tap the nut?

Does anyone know what i'm talking about?

Another question. Is there a repair panel for the rear floor underneath the rear seat on the o/s? To go under that large chassis boxing with the large holes drilled in it.

[Alec]

Hello David,

soak with penetrating oil, giving it plenty of time to absorb and a few applications. I'm guessing that you have plenty of length to use a pair of molegrips to turn the shank. Try tightening first then loosening. The real problem is the cage that holds the nut may distort with too much force so go carefully. Heating the bolt shank close to the pillar may also help but if the nut is still hot when you try and turn it it is more likely for the nut cage to distort and then the nut will just turn.

Alec

[taupe]

Drill and tap if you can, they are captive nuts in the pillar and are prone to rotating if the bolt is rusted in.

The only panel available for that area is the rear spring front mounting plate.. beyond that its a matter of fabricating your own panel or cutting from a scrap donor car... but your unlikely to find one where this panel is sound.

Taupe

[davidpidge]

Thanks for the replys. How's your traveller coming along Taupe?

I will have another go at the bolts soon. They're the only thing holding up the fitting of the new wood other than some cleaning up of welds etc. I'll also replace the rear brakes while they're nice and exposed along with sorting out the fuel tank and wiring to rear lights etc.

[taupe]

David

I just bought a complete timber replacement from BM.. huge discount as very slightly damaged

Timber had been holding up completion of rear alignment and I also need to do rear floor sections. The template is ready, just need to bash the metal!!!

Made a new Kunifer fuel pipe yesterday using the old pipe ends and sliver soldering...

May finish the bodywork by summer??? !!

Taupe

[davidpidge]

Good to hear! We got our timber from Woodies recently. Exciting to go and get it. I'm a cabinet maker so the wood side of the restoration is the bit that I enjoy the most! My fiancee's brother does most of the metal work.

[Leslie smith]

Can you give me any tips regarding removing b post bolts Badley rusted in thanks les

[taupe]

Its tricky but I found a way to reinstate as original.

The captive nuts are spot welded to a separate U section within the B post. This U channel can be removed complete with the bottom two captive nuts by drilling out the spot welds then making a hacksaw or thin cutting disc cut through to and then through the channel. Once released the channel drops out of the B post where it can be tidied up and the captive nuts cleared and retapped and the cages straightened. The whole channel is then reinserted and held in place with screws and nuts and the drilled spotweld holes are plug welded and the hacksaw cut welded back up. Not for the feint hearted but quite do-able.

Taupe

[Romek]

Mine were rusted too, but as I was replacing the frame (and chucking the old one), I decided to cut the heads off first with a grinder to get the frame off to get better access and to see what was going on. The bolts were rusted into the captive nuts, one of which was rotating.

I welded a nut onto the top of the headless bolts (and a spot of weld to stop any nuts rotating). I then used penetrating oil to soak the nut followed by heat as previously described. They all came off reasonably easily and the threads were all still ok thankfully.

New woodies frame on its way - I can't wait too...