Heater valve

[biomed32uk]

After a long time since my engine failed on me last Sept, one rebuild again later and its all back together. Fired her up the other night, all running well for the first start and the heater valve is leaking badly where the rod comes out, its the later type.

It wasn't leaking and its been fine, sat on the head wrapped up on the shelf all winter so far, looks the same as the one I can find pictures of on line.

The usual suspects don't sell them saying there has been quality issues with them, although they can be found.

Does anyone know a source of decent ones, I don't really want to go down the older tap route and open the bonnet everytime.

The one that has failed has been there at least 2 years, looked quite new when I got her.

[ManyMinors]

I got fed up with problem heater valves on my late car and have now fitted a brass tap like the earlier cars .
The heater works perfectly now - better than ever as I don't think the last valve was opening fully.
As its winter, I'm not expecting to have to turn the heater off anytime soon, so having to open the bonnet to do so isn't really a problem!

[myoldjalopy]

Fit the early tap type and leave it open all the time - just don't turn the heater on in summer! Works for me

[bmcecosse]

As above - it should never be shut anyway. You can buy (or make) a simple stub pipe to do the job, and nothing to worry about.

[Declan_Burns]

I used the mini valve which has lasted years. The Moggy repro didn't last one year.
Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]

[biomed32uk]

Seems like its an old brass one to start with, and I take the advice about leaving it open, or at very least cracked, it was between 3 and 4 that my engine failed, enough heat to turn the gudgeon pin light straw on No4, what really happened no one really knows, but it did. Definately full bore while shes running in and the heats at a maximum. I was pushing her somewhat when it failed on a warm day as well.

I wouldn't get that mini valve in there, my battery is right to the edge of the tray and it was only new last year.

Thinking of having a play wth one of these long term

http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/bra ... m-1-2.html

Make a bracket, remote mount it probably on the side of the battery tray, sort out the cable attachment and set it so there is a small flow all the time. May be worth pursuing.

[Mark Wilson]

Declan, is the angled stub pipe a standard mini fitting? Can't remember what engine you have, but would this avoid the battery tray clearance issue on a 1275?

[Declan_Burns]

Mark,
I made this up myself using copper pipe and 4mm steel from the DIY. Combine the two versions as necessary.
Arrangement standard 1098 head with mini valve[frame][/frame]
Arrangement 1275 head with moggy valve[frame][/frame]
The bits and pieces[frame][/frame]
Make sure it is a tight fit, de-burr, clean off the metal and solder it all together to suit your needs and paint accordingly.

Regards
Declan

[Mark Wilson]

Excellent! Could well be a future project for me - bit too busy at the moment trying to get the car painted and back together for summer....

Mark

[biomed32uk]

Yes, definately a bored afternoon project there, I have just whacked on an old style valve for the time being, as like you I just want it finished off, and I have quite a lot to do still.

[MikeNash]

Mark,
Like Declan, I've made my own connection - but not as nice! Thus[frame][/frame]

Cheap and easy, and it's been in use for a few years without trouble. My circular heater is supplied with hot water all the year round, of course, but I don't find it's a problem in summer. And as I've a 88C thermostat fitted it's nice and hot in the winter.
Regards, MikeN.

[mike.perry]

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
My version to adapt for a 1275 head. I probably cribbed it from you Declan

[Declan_Burns]

Mike,
Do you know what thread you used to join the two base plates together?

Regards
Declan

[panky]

I did something similar, pretty sure it was a BSP nipple.

[mike.perry]

[quote="Declan_Burns"]Mike,
Do you know what thread you used to join the two base plates together?

Regards
Declan[/quote

The base plates are unscrewed from the taps. The A Series has base plates on the taps, the Series MM USHM3 engine has the same tap without the base plate
Note also the engine steady bracket needs a V cut to fit around the tap

[TvdWerf]

I use the easy solution:[frame][/frame]
On this picture not complete ready, but at the moment almost finished.
Always open the original valve, and between this valve, and the heater, an electric Jaguar waterpump.
When you need the heater, just switch on the electric pump.
I use this solution, because I do not have the original side valve waterpump.

[bmcecosse]

Great solution ! Well done.