Crossmember

[joost]

Hello peeps, I'm new to this forum but not to moggies, having owned a traveller for the last 20 years or so. I've driven it for I don't know how many miles, probably to the moon and back but the last few months it's been off the road due to the crossmember collapsing, resulting in an involuntary lowered front suspension. I've seen new crossmembers advertized at very varied prices and my question is: are these parts made by the same manufacturers and of the same quality or are the higher priced ones actually better? I'd really like to get the car going again as it's been such a big part of my life for so long but I'm pretty strapped for cash. So if anyone can give me some good advice I'd really appreciate it.
Joost

[Willie]

The only two catalogues which I have list the centre cross member as'less
jacking points' and the prices are: £47.50 including VAT and an extra £7.95
for each jacking point Inc. VAT from Minor Developments on 01562 747718.
The other supplier is Bull Motif Spares on 01386 831755 but my catalogue is
way out of date so it is worth a ring. The normal cross member is laminated
which makes it prone to rusting between the laminations unless the edges are well sealed but there is one supplier of a non laminated cross member, about
which I have no experience, and they areMorris Minor Centre (Birmingham)
on 01215445522. A copy of Minor Matters will give you quite a few web sites
to contact.

[Onne]

Where are you from Joost? Your name doesn't really sound that english. Nor does mine, I know...

[newagetraveller]

Replacing two crosssmember ends is relatively straightforward.

Replacing the entire crossmember is much more involved.

[stevey]

Hi there, new to this arena my self, I have a 1970 four which has just had a driverside crossmember end replaced. What a difference to the ride!! But alinging the end was a little tricker, same with replacing the torsion bar (if you dont take measurements!!!!) So if the whole lot needs out measure and remeasure.

[paulk]

Trouble is if the crossmember has collapsed then likley the floor is shot and possibly the front rail ends too. Sills are likely to be soft too which then means innersill panel might not be great.

Having just done a crossmember end and rebuilt 50% of the rest of the crossmember myself, i'd suggest that it might be cheaper (and a whole lot easier)getting the whole floor done by a restorer. If you put your time as a cost (even only £5/hr) then you'll soon come up to a value not far off getting it done by a 'cough' Proffesional.

Unless you are very confident in your own welding ability and more importantly jigging/measuring skills I'd think twice myself.

Having said all that If (like me) you can't afford to get someone else to do it then measure , measure and measure again and don't be surprised to find all sorts of other horrors under there when you cut the old one out.

[joost]

Thanks for all your answers, I'll consider the options (and possible other problems mentioned by Paulk) and keep you informed. I do realize that it's quite an operation but luckily I'm not in a desperate hurry as I have another car for everyday use.
And yes, Onne, I'm Dutch, too! Living in the north of Scotland. (which is probably why that crossmember got so rusty!!)
Joost