central locking
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central locking
Would anyone have any information on fitting central locking to a 2 door saloon, I am restoring a 71 saloon for my daughter which will be used daily.
If I can use a couple of solonoids wired up to an aftermarket alarm, it would make life easier when getting into the car when on her own.
I don't mind looking in breakers yards and my wiring skills are reasonable.
the doors are in bits ready for new skins etc.
Can a lock be fitted to lock the drivers door to allow it to be locked from the inside, similar the the passenger side.
If I can use a couple of solonoids wired up to an aftermarket alarm, it would make life easier when getting into the car when on her own.
I don't mind looking in breakers yards and my wiring skills are reasonable.
the doors are in bits ready for new skins etc.
Can a lock be fitted to lock the drivers door to allow it to be locked from the inside, similar the the passenger side.
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I think it should be possible. There's actually a 'central locking' kit sold by Maplin which 'fits any car', although I've not looked to see what is in it.
I did wonder this myself, as a solution to the no-lock-on-the-passenger side on the 4 door, so I'll be interested to hear how you get on.
I did wonder this myself, as a solution to the no-lock-on-the-passenger side on the 4 door, so I'll be interested to hear how you get on.
Pyoor Kate
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
The Electric Minor Project
The Current Fleet:
1969 Morris 'thou, 4 Door. 2010 Mitsubishi iMiEV. 1920s BSA Pushbike. 1930s Raleigh pushbike.
The Ex-Fleet:
1974 & 1975 Daf 44s, 1975 Enfield 8000 EV, 1989 Yugo 45, 1981 Golf Mk1, 1971 Vauxhall Viva, 1989 MZ ETZ 125, 1989 Volvo Vario 340, 1990, 1996 & 1997 MZ/Kanuni ETZ 251s
Desires:
Trabant 601, Tatra T603, Series II Landy, Moskvitch-401, Vincent HRD Black Shadow, Huge garage, Job in Washington State.
I think the difficulty with upgrading to central locking is that the solenoids are not powerful enough to turn the handles on the inside of the door, if you think about it in a modern car, when locking and unlocking the doors the handle inside does not move.
I have read that there is a restrictor on the drivers door lock that could be removed to allow you to lock it from the inside. havnt seen it myself though... if you come across a kit designed for classic cars/ minors then please let me know
I have read that there is a restrictor on the drivers door lock that could be removed to allow you to lock it from the inside. havnt seen it myself though... if you come across a kit designed for classic cars/ minors then please let me know
Last edited by picky on Sat Apr 14, 2007 10:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
1969 Four door Saloon Old English White 1275 with ported head and HS4 carb. Wolseley 1500 front brakes. Currently off the road with a leaky master cylinder!
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I had a look at this too as it sounds like a fun idea. After trawling through loads of ads I found one that said how much travel you get from the motors/solenoids.
I can't seem to find it now but it seems these kits are for all cars that have locking buttons in the doors and the motors/solenoids give less than an inch of travel.
If you could find a way to utilise this limited range and power to work on a Morris it could work but I don't think it would be an easy job.
This ad has a list of cars that the kit works with;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Central-Lo ... dZViewItem
I can't seem to find it now but it seems these kits are for all cars that have locking buttons in the doors and the motors/solenoids give less than an inch of travel.
If you could find a way to utilise this limited range and power to work on a Morris it could work but I don't think it would be an easy job.
This ad has a list of cars that the kit works with;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Central-Lo ... dZViewItem
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Good point about the power of the solonoids turning the handle, new cars require less effort.
I will try the RS components web site, we use them at work for valves/ actuators etc (I work in a chemical plant), voltage may be the problem.
It's worth a go, some of the systems on ebay have built in alarms, but do look a little lightweight.
I'll keep you posted,
I will try the RS components web site, we use them at work for valves/ actuators etc (I work in a chemical plant), voltage may be the problem.
It's worth a go, some of the systems on ebay have built in alarms, but do look a little lightweight.
I'll keep you posted,
So far as an interior actuator for the drivers door on a 2-soor is concerned, it's dead easy. The little lever is available from many traders, and just pushes into the lock (there is a spring-loaded retaining pin). NB it is NOT the same as the left hand door, but a mirror image. Make sure to order the right (in all senses) one.
For central locking, a solenoid does not have to be used on the existing locks, but could operate a shoot bolt that fires into the B-post. Then, regardless of what happens to the original door locks, the door won't open until the bolt is retracted by operating the solenoid in reverse. It would require a fair bit of tinkering plus a second plunger to lock the bolt in place (open or closed). Suitable for either 2 or 4 door cars.
For central locking, a solenoid does not have to be used on the existing locks, but could operate a shoot bolt that fires into the B-post. Then, regardless of what happens to the original door locks, the door won't open until the bolt is retracted by operating the solenoid in reverse. It would require a fair bit of tinkering plus a second plunger to lock the bolt in place (open or closed). Suitable for either 2 or 4 door cars.
4 motors, some brackets, wiring and a control box as far as I know.Pyoor_Kate wrote:I think it should be possible. There's actually a 'central locking' kit sold by Maplin which 'fits any car', although I've not looked to see what is in it.
The servos (what is the plural of servo?) are fitted to the door shell either direct or using the brackets, and have rods that fit to the top and latch onto the lock actuating rod (wherever that is on a Minor, I can't remember!). It might be possible to hook the end of the rod off the servo onto the back of the barrel if there's enough space and it doesn't take too much shove to move it.
One of the servos will be the "control" one, so when the lock is turned the plunger makes contact inside sending the signal to the others to lock or unlock. I assume the control box can also be rigged up to a keyless entry system/ alarm. Though if the drivers door servo is actually just a dummy one (it could be, as it only needs to send the signal if you're using the key on that door) then you'd also need a proper motorised one in its place.
The servos are a straight swap for the factory fitted BL/ Rover ones of the 80s and probably 90s (certainly Monties and Metros had the same) and I know the drivers side one I had from a Rover Metro was fully wired to operate as a servo as well as switch for the others.
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Have a look at boot locks on cars with central locking.malminor wrote:the shoot bolts look the way forward, I have found some 12volt solonoids in the RS Components catalouge, with enough pin travel to work, just got to figure out the location / wiring to remote controller
They are often a lot more "meaty" than the door types.
I've got a couple lying around and they certainly produce a satifying "clunk" when operated compared to the weedy motor wine of a door item.
I might be wrong but seem to think doors are a motor and screw thread to move the operating arm. The boot ones have a chuffing big electromagent solenoid instead !
Paul Humphries.
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How would you unlock it if the battery flattened itself?steve4063 wrote:i had the same thought as someone else a dead bolt going into the door frame
Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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How would you unlock it if the battery flattened itself
Or get out if you had an accident that lost the battery voltage. I think it would have to fail safe, but then all you nee to do is cut the power to open the doors.
I have changed the locks on mine. I would be interested to let other people try their keys (gently) to see if the universal key problem is only on old locks.
I have a steering wheel lock with a very loud sounder that goes off when disturbed - opening the door is enough to set it off ( I then have 10 secs to put the code in). I know the limitations, but a lot of noise attracts attention.
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
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No reason you couldn't have a manual lever on the inside to work the bolts as well in case of accident.
If the battery went flat you could (as a last resort) open the boot & take out the seat butterfly bolts & climb in that way...... No real need for central locking on the boot!
Dan
If the battery went flat you could (as a last resort) open the boot & take out the seat butterfly bolts & climb in that way...... No real need for central locking on the boot!
Dan
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Forgot to say, they should be lever actuated with an over centre pivot for security, you could probably get it to bounce if you relied on the solenoid to keep it in place.....
Dan
Dan
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Fenchurch's back door has a different key to the driver's door and ignition, and it won't operate the other locks, or vice versa. They're not difficult to pick but I suspect most thieves would take the lowest-skill route of putting a brick through the quarterlight.RogerRust wrote:I have changed the locks on mine. I would be interested to let other people try their keys (gently) to see if the universal key problem is only on old locks.
I'd like to watch one trying to work out why turning the ignition key doesn't make the engine start
Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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Looking back at the original issue I recon it could be done with a 4 door car.
You'd need to 'break' the latches though.
Theres a small ball bearing which holds the handles in their closed position and results in the physical 'click' you feel when locking the doors.
If you remove this bearing the latch swings un-impeded and requires hardly any force to move it. (I know as the bearing has falle out in one of my latches)
With a long lever attached to a pivot (think see-saws here) you could attach one end to a short arm that comes off the sqaure lock spindle and attach the other end to a central locking solenoid.
Provided the fulcrum was located in the right place on this lever you could easily exert enough force to turn the square spindle enough to unlock the door(s).
OK, its a bit of a messy setup but I'm sure the basic idea can be improved upon by someone who frankly has more time and inclination than I would!
Oh, lastly, this would need doing remotely and I'm not sure how you'd deal with the drivers door as these dont swing the handle to lock like the others do... hmm.. more work required I think...
You'd need to 'break' the latches though.
Theres a small ball bearing which holds the handles in their closed position and results in the physical 'click' you feel when locking the doors.
If you remove this bearing the latch swings un-impeded and requires hardly any force to move it. (I know as the bearing has falle out in one of my latches)
With a long lever attached to a pivot (think see-saws here) you could attach one end to a short arm that comes off the sqaure lock spindle and attach the other end to a central locking solenoid.
Provided the fulcrum was located in the right place on this lever you could easily exert enough force to turn the square spindle enough to unlock the door(s).
OK, its a bit of a messy setup but I'm sure the basic idea can be improved upon by someone who frankly has more time and inclination than I would!
Oh, lastly, this would need doing remotely and I'm not sure how you'd deal with the drivers door as these dont swing the handle to lock like the others do... hmm.. more work required I think...
What would Macgyver do..?
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ive central locking i can lock and unlock all my doors from the drivers seat, cause i can reach all the locks and handles from the drivers seat!!! with a 2 door is there any need for central locking? theres only 1 other door. if security is an issue perhaps enabling the drivers door to lock from the inside?