morris 1962 2 door

[volrod544]

Bought a 1962 minor with a 948 engine,rose taupe in colour.It needs quite a lot of work to the bodyshell.It came with no interior bootlid or floor !
Pete[frame][/frame]

[volrod544]

1st job was to remove the engine,wings,propshaft and build a rollover jig to access the underside easier.[frame][/frame]

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

Looks like a good project, see how well that drivers door sits - I wish I could get mine to sit like that!

Good luck with the project

[volrod544]

lots of work to do.I braced between the door aperture and across the car with box section,positioning the braces so i can still close the door-this can then be removed and trial fitted during the replacement of the panels.[frame][/frame]

[volrod544]

When all you can see is rusty panels,i had the problem of knowing where to start !.I decided the worst side would be tackled first-leaving the better side for strength and referance purposes.I repaired the rear spring hanger,then the inner arch with some patch panels made from 1mm steel.pic shows a support i tack welded to the bumpstop to hold the axle down out of the way.[frame][/frame].i bought a rear arch corner but the fit was poor so i decided i could fabricate one better.

[Neil MG]

Looks like an unmolested car, great for restoration. Agree with David, panel fit is absolutely the key.

Seems you know what you are doing too. Looking forward to more pictures.

[kevin s]

Looks relatively rust free comparred to ours! (see my thread)

Good luck.

[volrod544]

Looks relatively rust free comparred to ours! (see my thread)

Good luck.

just looked at your thread-makes me feel better about the work to do on mine !

[volrod544]

The shell has only previously been repaired in a couple of places-front chassis rails and outer floorpan areas so thats a bonus.[frame][/frame].spring hanger area was repaired ~work started in january by the way.
I have read other threads to try and get some advise on how to do the job.
I decided to do the drivers sill but realised i would need something solid to weld it to at each end.I initially cut a hole in the rear valance behind the door to get a better view .[frame][/frame]
I repaired the front of the rear inner arch where the sill attached.I then moved to the front[frame][/frame]
I took several measurements and scribed some referance lines (for hole centres etc) on the good metal.I wire brushed the area and cut out a bit of the rot.i bent the flange out flat that runs around the arch and made a contour gauge (to be used for referance)using a shrinker/strecher tool.[frame][/frame].
I used the contour gauge to make up a repair panel for the flange on the front inner arch.[frame][/frame].
I made up a simple press tool to make the dimples for the captive nuts along with a captive nut .a repair was made for the inner arch and welded in.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame].
The captive plate (for the 2 lower wing mounting bolts) was heavily corroded so a new one was made from 5mm plate,the holes being tapped 5/16" bsf[frame][/frame]

[StaffsMoggie]

Very nice work. Its great to see another one being saved. Well done, that will be fantastic when you're finished.

[volrod544]

here,s the tool i made to make the dimples- and the repair almost finished-[frame][/frame][frame][/frame].
The area under the bumpstop was also corroded so a curved repair was fabricated and welded in.[frame][/frame]

[volrod544]

I tackled a new cloaking panel for the hinge pillar,the passenger side was fairly intact so a paper template was taken from it.I like to use brown packaging paper (cheap and tough).memo board magnets are used to hold the paper template onto the panel whilst marking it out[frame][/frame].the panel was then made (opposite to the template)from 1.2mm sheet for the drivers side.I first tipped (folded) the edges and then used the stretcher tool to get the curve correct-offering the panel up frequently to check fit.[frame][/frame]

[pauly45]

Great job - I like the tools you've made.

What does the tool to make up the captive nut cages look like?

[volrod544]

What does the tool to make up the captive nut cages look like?[/quote]
I have only made the 1 so far and used nothing more complicated than a piece of 13mm square bar 29mm long ,a vise,a hammer and a pair of pliers.I will need more and plan on modifying the simple tool to make the job easier.maybe post a pic of this later in the thread.

[kevin s]

Impressive stuff, I went for a easier option, I made and fitted the inner wing panels I clamped the wing in place until it lined up, then marked through the mounting holes. Removed the wing, drilled a hole in the centre of each marked hole then popped a stainless rivnut in and welded around the edge.

For the ones you can get to the back of I just used a nut and bolt.

[tysonn]

Is the rivnut tool for stainless inserts hand held or air powered?I have the hand held which works fine with ali but think it will struggle with stainless.

[volrod544]

Ok,now made my captive nut cage jigs.Heres the drawing of the part to be made-[frame][/frame].
Heres the "how its made" movie- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-e-Wnuj ... e=youtu.be

[volrod544]

captive nut tool-[frame][/frame]

[volrod544]

the front area (near the seam) of the front inner arch was rusted so a repair was joggled and welded in place.[frame][/frame]

[volrod544]

some of the rusty floor was removed to gain access so i could remove the rh inner sill[frame][/frame].the sill / boxing panel was removed by drilling out the spotwelds and the rusty assembly removed as one.the boxing panel extension was also removed.I compared the removed original panels with new replacements i bought -THIS IS WHEN MY DISLIKE OF PATTERN PANELS BEGAN !.i may as well make panels that dont fit properly rather than buy them !