1275 engine to 1098 gearbox - clutch?

[bmcecosse]

You lost me with the 'plastic ball'..... pictures would help ? There is nothing '11mm' on a Minor......

[philthehill]

I suspect the plastic ball referred to is - Bearing Spherical Part No: ACA5121 which is held in place by Retainer Pt No: 2A5025 and which is in turn secured by bolt 1/4" UNF (MOSS) Pt No: SH604041.

[bmcecosse]

Ahhh - the relay shaft bearing..... Are they now plastic ?? Used to be Tufnol....

[mike.perry]

The manual linkage is for the 1098 box since the original question was about fitting a 1275 engine to a 1098 box. I have no experience with the type 95.

[mike1970mog]

hi i mean[frame][/frame]
and[frame][/frame] bush ball gearbox side like pillthehill said
just wunder how anyone remount gearbox side of relay shaft because of type 9 5 speed if bin dun befor o and 7/16th not 11mm sorry bmc

thanks for replys

[philthehill]

The biggest problem with having a mechanical linkage as part of a type 9 conversion is where do you mount the inner end of the clutch relay shaft?
Unless you can come up with a suitable mounting to attach to the gearbox it is near impossible to incorporate the mechanical linkage.
Looking at a spare gearbox side cover (Pt No: 88G214) - the spherical ball mounting boss could be cut out from that cover and mounted on a suitable bracket which would then give an inner mounting for the relay shaft. Use a standard 1098cc Minor clutch release arm (Pt No 22G166) attached to a suitable release bearing (possibly roller) and you would be home and dry.
The first attempt might be a bit 'Heath Robinson' but once sure that it works it can be improved to make it look workman like.
When I first fitted my Ford Gearbox it was all suck it and see but I got there in the end.

[faversham999]

so Mike you have a 1098 box with a 1098 clutch

[bmcecosse]

Mike is planning on fitting a 'type 9' (although why that is considered worthwhile is beyond me...) but wants to use the mechanical 'Minor' linkage - therefor he needs to fabricate a mount for that to attach to the '9' - and wants to know if anyone has done this before, to save him reinventing the wheel...... Hopefully - I've got that right ?

[jagnut66]

Hi,
Since there are two Mikes on this post and it might get a bit confusing..............

Mike (1970Mog) now has my old Ford type 9 gearbox (and fitting kit, prop etc) to fit onto his 1098 engine with 1098 flywheel and was seeking clarification on the best route to go clutch-wise. He also intends to retain his mechanical clutch activation..................

Mike (jagnut66 - me) who started this post - intends to go back to the 1098 gearbox, fitting it to my 1275 ex MG Midget engine, utilizing the existing 1275 Midget flywheel and hydraulic clutch activation (which I converted to previously and is in situ anyway), I am now going to purchase the standard Midget clutch kit that I posted a link to earlier.................

Best wishes,
Mike (no - not a third one!! ).

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I didn't see any problem with your 'standard' box fitment........

[mike.perry]

Mike, the 3rd one, Series MM Registrar, was advising Mike, jagnut66, on fitting a 1275 engine to a 1098 box.
I hope that clears things up

[jagnut66]

Well, shes's all back together.........
However I can't engage gear without them crunching, no matter how much I adjust the clutch. In fact it doesn't really want to go into gear at all with the engine running.
I'm hoping that I've simply made the classic mistake of fitting the friction plate the wrong way round, so out with the interior and off with the tunnel cover again. then I should be able to withdraw the gearbox though the car without taking the engine out.
Then we shall see..........
I hope it's this otherwise I'll be stumped. So back to the drawing board..............

[bmcecosse]

Oh dear ...... can you take some pictures? Which release bearing are you using ? Note MOSS list a different bearing (item 4) for the 1275 - maybe it's thicker. Your problem is likely to be that the release fork is running out of travel before the bearing has pushed the pressure plate far enough to release the clutch properly. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-mo ... 500cc.html

[jagnut66]

Hi BMC,
You've set me thinking, as I did think the connecting bar coming from the clutch master was at it's limit, meaning that it might not push very much pressure through to the slave. In the post I've pasted the link to below 'philthehill' seems to have used a connecting nut to extend the bar (similar to the idea that links the two halves of the engine steady bar). I may be able to rig something like this to test this theory out, before disconnecting everything and removing the gearbox, worth a try.................

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=51485

This is the clutch kit I bought and fitted:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111577495888? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Best wishes,
Mike.

[mike.perry]

I am confused as to which engine, box, clutch linkage you have used.
Mike Series MM Registrar

[bmcecosse]

But the 'wishbone' lever that moves the graphite release can only move so far......hence the thicker (and perhaps more offset) release bearing used on the 1275 Midget........ By pushing it harder you may only bend/break the lever..... I suggest a good look inside through the 'bung' holes with a light in the other hole.

[jagnut66]

1275 Midget engine, Morris Minor 1000 box (same as Midget anyway I'm lead to believe), standard Midget clutch kit as per link in my last message.

I will be treading carefully with this, as I want to try and fathom out what my problem is without damaging something......

So onward's whilst curbing my frustration............

[mike1970mog]

jagnut look for this on ebay ( threaded tube) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Various-Le ... _424wt_958 .....and look for (clevis) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8x1-25-RH-LI ... _912wt_958 have fun lots to look thro think u need threaded rod to

[philthehill]

If your master cylinder threads are UNF you will need this clevis, spacer and or operating rod or similar.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/gi ... is-gmc-clv

and possibly these

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/gi ... unf-gmc-pr

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Threaded-Inse ... 3f3878fe9a

Adequate movement of the carbon thrust is most important.
One of my early clutch conversions (and many years ago now) so as to get and allow adequate movement of the carbon thrust was to file away some of the carbon thrust at the top of the centre hole to allow adequate movement otherwise the carbon thrust fouled the first motion shaft. After removing the fouling point it all worked and very well too
How we managed before the internet I shall never know

[jagnut66]

Thanks Philthehill, I have bought the extended push rod.............
..............my fingers are now firmly crossed.............
If not I will pulling it all apart again..............