57 Saloon, rotten!

[SageGreenPete]

[SageGreenPete]

I've made this as a bespoke boxing panel repair, it ties the boxing panel, inner arch, arch lip repair and C post together all in one! Once the C post is repaired at the bottom is will be solid and rot free down there.

My sills and boxing plates are a bit of a home brew but rot free and sturdy so I'm leaving them as they are, I've made some large circular holes instead of the rectangular ones in the factory boxings so I can get inside, they are ok and I'll fill them with wax oil when it's ready.

[SageGreenPete]

Here we go again on the passenger side then!

[SageGreenPete]

All cut out and ground back except for the top lip, I've managed to keep the boot floor, bump stop reinforcer inside the chassis and more edge to attach to on this side so I'm hoping it will be easier.

[BI8759]

Can I ask where you got your boot aperture panel from as it looks a decent fit. The one I just bought is about 10mm narrower than the back of my car!

[SageGreenPete]

I think it was from bull motif but I bought it years ago!

Here's a funny thing it looked too narrow as you say but I fitted it at the weekend and it lines up ok? ! The one you have might be the same once you get bending and swearing at it.

I can take some measurements if you like?

[SageGreenPete]

[SageGreenPete]

Boot floor in.

[SageGreenPete]

Rear panel in, still got lots of little bits to fill in and what not, I'm double skinning the joint in the rear panel and butt welding the joint so it should grind back flat on the outside but just have a neat plate on the inside.

[les]

You're making a nice job of that car, I especially like the preparation on the lower rear panel prior to fitting, making for clean assembly. Great stuff, nice to see it.

[SageGreenPete]

Thanks! I'm learning every day, I've used upol weld thru primer everywhere I can and built everything with self drilling tek screws before squashing and bending things as close as possible before dismantling, priming and then refitting and welding, even a screw every few holes isn't tight enough for a neat plug weld do I'm putting the mole grips next to each hole to be welded, move to one far away and back again etc.

[les]

You won't regret the effort put in!

[SageGreenPete]

I hope not, I'll be doing the full floors in future so hopefully I'll be able to continue from where I finish this time too!

[SageGreenPete]

Getting there, ordered all the mechanical parts yesterday and a half cross member.

[SageGreenPete]

Made some reproduction 1950s cable clips and coated them in weld thru primer.



Few bits from ESM and ebay have arrived, just waiting on the Bull Motif delivery. I like this part of a restoration!

[SageGreenPete]

Seam sealed and primed to hell and back, front hangers are ugly but solid enough for now, they'll go with the floors in the future but I think they have another decade left.


Sealed inside the boot too including tiger seal down the wider joints, that's as strong as the welding once set!


Almost every single part here is new! Had fun building it up though, I've had the braided brake line and full polybush kit for years ready to go on, I'll put the brakes together after torquing the hub nuts up once installed on the car.

[Smithy1961]

Oh that all looks great .
The axle unit looks like new

[SageGreenPete]

Ta!
Wire wheeled off, new locating plate welded to replace a thin one, 3 coats of smoothrite, same with the diff and brake back plates, shocks and mounting plates, new seals,gaskets,bearings,bushes, every brake part including the handbrake cables, must remember to fill it with diff oil once fitted!

[SageGreenPete]

Boot painted, It's having the bottle green carpet set in here to break up the black.

[SageGreenPete]

Gravitex rubber textured finish, smoothrite going on tomorrow and maybe clear wax coating over that, gallons of dinitrol in the box sections!