Rear bearings

[acmsb]

Hi everyone

I have a 1969 Morris Traveller (1098cc). I'm just doing some long overdue work on the brakes and bearings, and have replaced / refurbished the front bearings, wheel hubs, backplates and brake drums.

I now want to do the same thing with the rear wheels, but I understand this is more complicated, as she's rear wheel drive, so doing the bearings would involve removing the drive shaft on both sides to get at the hub assembly and bearings.

Would anyone be able to offer any advice on this process and how to do it? As a newbie to these things, all advice and comments are very gratefully received!

Thank you!

Alex

[philthehill]

Welcome to the world of Morris Minors.

You could use the search facility on here as there is plenty of information regarding the servicing/overhaul of the rear hubs/bearings.

Alternatively you could search the web for information and/or workshop manual(s).

Or again you could purchase a genuine BMC/BL workshop manual off 'e' bay which has all the correct information you require.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MORRIS-MINOR ... Swy5Bavfv2

[acmsb]

Hi Phil

Thanks for your reply. I've got the Manual and am going through the website and t'interweb. I was just wondering if there were any practical tips from hard earned experience, as i've learned the hard way that there's a big difference what's meant to happen on the page and what actually happens in real life!

Alex

[philthehill]

Have a look through this link - mixed front/rear bearings but there is some good rear axle bearing advice contained in it.
search.php?keywords=rear+hub+bearings&fid%5B0%5D=4

If the bearings are not rough or damaged I would leave alone as new bearings may not be as good as the original.

Make sure that the hub flange gasket is the right thickness (see wksp man for info).

Make sure that the hub seal is fitted the right way round and that the drain hole in the rear backplate is clear.

There is no quoted torque for the rear hub nut - just very tight but not gorilla tight.

[alanworland]

Please use a spanner/socket to undo/tighten the hub nut! I know you will find reference to undoing the nut with a chisel !!
It has a hexagonal shape for an engineering reason!

Alan

[les]

Well said that man!

[philthehill]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morris-minor ... SwX99ZnW12

[acmsb]

Hi guys

That's really helpful thank you!

I will read and have a go and report back!

Thanks again

Ale

[GavinL]

i made my own hub nut spanner - viewtopic.php?f=4&t=67265#p611194 - works perfectly, apart from the handle which has been replaced with a length of 1/2" square tube.

[philthehill]

As regards making a suitable rear hub nut spanner - I could not make it for the Bull Motif price and free postage too.
Sometimes it is easier and cheaper to purchase the ready made item.
A suitable socket is no cheaper and you would in all probability have to buy an 1/2" to 3/4" adapter to suit..
Using a socket puts the effort out of line with the nut. The socket nut face will need to be ground flat as the socket are usually countersunk and that combined with a thin hub nut does not give much grip which may lead to damaged nuts and knuckles.
Flat plate spanners for this application are best.
Phil

[acmsb]

Hi guys

Thank you for the advice - really useful! I have bought the spanner from ebay and look forward to having a go. I had a mini play yesterday (I was meant to be working) and managed to get the half shaft out - in fact it came out very smoothly and I wasn't quick enough to move my foot out of the way of the dripping oil! I had a quick look at the bearings, but no time for proper examination. When the spanner arrives I will have a closer look!

Thanks again for all your advice

Alex

[Trickydicky]

Does anyone know what the measurement AF of the nut is? I would like to make my own spanner.
Thanks

[philthehill]

The distance across the flats of a Morris Minor 1000 rear hub nut is 47.1mm.

If you are making your own make it so that the spanner fits around the wheel studs - the spanner can then be held tight to the hub by the wheel nuts which is safer and eliminates the possibility of slippage by the spanner.

This is the link to the plate spanner I use - the two notches enable it to fit round the wheel studs and the wheel nuts hold the spanner to the hub.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rear-hub-nut ... xyuOtRa9uD

[acmsb]

Hi all

I had a lovely day working in the sun on the car today. Managed to get both half shafts out and then got onto the big nut holding the bearing in place. Each had one locking tab which I flattened out to get the special spanner on - then no joy at all with undoing the nut! I had checked previous posts (near side undoes clockwise because LH thread, passenger side undoes anticlockwise) so I was going the right way but I couldn't move it at all - it wouldn't budge a mm!

Is this normal that it should be so tight or am I being really weak?

All advice (and honest opinions!) are welcome - I need to know!

Thank you again

Alex

[Dogsdad]

Near side of car is passenger side. Left hand thread nut. Undo clockwise.

Off side of car is drivers side. Right hand thead nut. Undo anti-clockwise.

Best of luck, R.M.

[BrianHawley]

Near side of car is passenger side. Left hand thread nut. Undo clockwise.

Off side of car is drivers side. Right hand thead nut. Undo anti-clockwise.

Best of luck, R.M.

Assuming it’s a right hand drive car of course

[philthehill]

The description that should be used is:-

Looking from the rear of the car forward the L/H hub nut from car No: 376869 the L/H hub nut has a L/H thread.

Looking from the rear of the car forward the R/H hub nut remained unchanged with the nut having a R/H thread.

As regards the Traveller - the L/H hub was fitted with a L/H threaded nut from car No: 370228.

See wksp manual Section HH for details relating to the second type 3/4" floating hypoid rear axle.

The nut should be very tight - there should be sufficient leverage with the new plate spanner to undo.
Make sure that the tab washer is knocked well back from the nut as that may be causing resistance to the nut being undone.

[acmsb]

Hi guys

Thank you - that's really helpful. I will check that the locking tabs are completely clear and then try again. Clearly undoing seized nuts on a Morris is as good as going to the gym!

Thanks again

Alex

[philthehill]

I have known rear hub nuts to have been put on cross threaded which then proves a devil to remove but never seized - not with all that back axle oil splashing about.

[acmsb]

Hi guys

Thanks so much for all your help.

We did successfully manage to remove the rear wheel hubs yesterday!

Thanks to your help and advice, I managed, with the the newly purchased spanner from ebay and a large rubber mallet, to get both bearing nuts off! Then with my friend Russ, who is much more expert than me, worked out how to get the hubs off without the special pulling tool, using leverage off a giant spanner and a crowbar.

Then we got the (very tight) backplate bolts undone, and only had to resort to angle grinding one out of the 8!

Then took everything in for a bloody good clean and spray, resulting in an overflowing kitchen table and very shiny backplates!

Photos attached - thank you all for your help - looking forward to putting it all back and driving with new back brakes!