What is your experience of replacement ignition coils?
I need to replace the coil on my electronic ignition-equipped, negative-earth 1275 with a Lucas DLB105 equivalent.
However, in age when many of the once-trusted brands are no longer what they were, I wondered if anyone had experience of these alternative makes of coil I’ve come across:
• Pride
• Viper (resin-filled dry coil)
• Remax
• Intermotor
Also, I note some suppliers offer their coils in ballast and non-ballast versions, but I’m unsure which I need for my set-up. Is anyone knowledgeable about car electrics able to explain?
Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
I will explain the difference between a ballast and non-ballast systems.
Basically it comes down to primary coil resistance. When drawing current the coil usually tops out at about 4 Amps. This is sufficient to overheat (and destroy) a coil if the vehicle is left with the ignition on while the contact points are closed. Running any more current would also burn the points much more quickly, so a compromise situation.
For a 12 volt system the primary normally shows a resistance of about 3-4 Ohms. This may be just a coil or the coil plus an internal resistor.
Some vehicles were hard starters because the lower voltage at the coil (while the starter motor was operating) provided a reduced energy spark at the plugs. (Think here smaller batteries than in earlier years?).
The way round the problem was to fit a 6 Volt coil with a separate resistor (the ballast resistor) in the feed from the ignition switch.
The coil would normally be powered via this supply, whilst running - but when starting, the coil would be fed from the starter motor side of the starter solenoid, hence supplying a much higher coil voltage when cranking providing a better spark at cranking speeds.
Modern-day 12 volt coils are basically a 6 volt coil with an internal ‘ballast’ resistor within the coil canister.
Basically it comes down to primary coil resistance. When drawing current the coil usually tops out at about 4 Amps. This is sufficient to overheat (and destroy) a coil if the vehicle is left with the ignition on while the contact points are closed. Running any more current would also burn the points much more quickly, so a compromise situation.
For a 12 volt system the primary normally shows a resistance of about 3-4 Ohms. This may be just a coil or the coil plus an internal resistor.
Some vehicles were hard starters because the lower voltage at the coil (while the starter motor was operating) provided a reduced energy spark at the plugs. (Think here smaller batteries than in earlier years?).
The way round the problem was to fit a 6 Volt coil with a separate resistor (the ballast resistor) in the feed from the ignition switch.
The coil would normally be powered via this supply, whilst running - but when starting, the coil would be fed from the starter motor side of the starter solenoid, hence supplying a much higher coil voltage when cranking providing a better spark at cranking speeds.
Modern-day 12 volt coils are basically a 6 volt coil with an internal ‘ballast’ resistor within the coil canister.
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
If it's anything to do with ignition then I would speak to Distributor Doctor - http://www.distributordoctor.com/
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
Yes, I have had good service from "Doctor" Martin too. I bought a coil from him a few years ago and it has been fine.
Re: Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
I fitted a Bosch blue coil to my car in 2015 and it hasn't given me any trouble. I've also read other good reviews of the same.
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
With my Morris Minors and my Triumph, non-ballast.
With the MG's I've owned in the past I fitted non-ballast too, however I believe that MG's do sometimes require a ballast coil but then mine had been converted to a single 12V battery from the twin 6V batteries that were originally under the rear seat.
Best wishes,
Mike.
With the MG's I've owned in the past I fitted non-ballast too, however I believe that MG's do sometimes require a ballast coil but then mine had been converted to a single 12V battery from the twin 6V batteries that were originally under the rear seat.
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
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- Minor Fan
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Re: Replacement coils – trusted brand, ballast or non-ballast?
Thanks everyone!