central locking

Post by **malminor** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 9:31 pm

Would anyone have any information on fitting central locking to a 2 door saloon, I am restoring a 71 saloon for my daughter which will be used daily.
If I can use a couple of solonoids wired up to an aftermarket alarm, it would make life easier when getting into the car when on her own.
I don't mind looking in breakers yards and my wiring skills are reasonable.
the doors are in bits ready for new skins etc.
Can a lock be fitted to lock the drivers door to allow it to be locked from the inside, similar the the passenger side.

Post by **bigginger** » Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:02 pm

To my knowledge, it's not been done, and I suspect it would not be possible with the existing locks of any model. I hope somebody proves me wrong though

Post by **8009STEVE** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 1:32 am

We have a central locking system in our 2 door. It is our 10 yr old grandson called Charlie..

Post by **Pyoor_Kate** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 7:58 am

I think it should be possible. There's actually a 'central locking' kit sold by Maplin which 'fits any car', although I've not looked to see what is in it.

I did wonder this myself, as a solution to the no-lock-on-the-passenger side on the 4 door, so I'll be interested to hear how you get on.

Post by **picky** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:04 am

I think the difficulty with upgrading to central locking is that the solenoids are not powerful enough to turn the handles on the inside of the door, if you think about it in a modern car, when locking and unlocking the doors the handle inside does not move.

I have read that there is a restrictor on the drivers door lock that could be removed to allow you to lock it from the inside. havnt seen it myself though... if you come across a kit designed for classic cars/ minors then please let me know

Post by **MarkyB** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:01 am

I had a look at this too as it sounds like a fun idea. After trawling through loads of ads I found one that said how much travel you get from the motors/solenoids.
I can't seem to find it now but it seems these kits are for all cars that have locking buttons in the doors and the motors/solenoids give less than an inch of travel.
If you could find a way to utilise this limited range and power to work on a Morris it could work but I don't think it would be an easy job.
This ad has a list of cars that the kit works with;
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Remote-Central-Lo ... dZViewItem

Post by **malminor** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:34 am

Good point about the power of the solonoids turning the handle, new cars require less effort.
I will try the RS components web site, we use them at work for valves/ actuators etc (I work in a chemical plant), voltage may be the problem.
It's worth a go, some of the systems on ebay have built in alarms, but do look a little lightweight.
I'll keep you posted,

Post by **simmitc** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 9:11 pm

So far as an interior actuator for the drivers door on a 2-soor is concerned, it's dead easy. The little lever is available from many traders, and just pushes into the lock (there is a spring-loaded retaining pin). NB it is NOT the same as the left hand door, but a mirror image. Make sure to order the right (in all senses) one.

For central locking, a solenoid does not have to be used on the existing locks, but could operate a shoot bolt that fires into the B-post. Then, regardless of what happens to the original door locks, the door won't open until the bolt is retracted by operating the solenoid in reverse. It would require a fair bit of tinkering plus a second plunger to lock the bolt in place (open or closed). Suitable for either 2 or 4 door cars.

Post by **malminor** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:16 am

the shoot bolts look the way forward, I have found some 12volt solonoids in the RS Components catalouge, with enough pin travel to work, just got to figure out the location / wiring to remote controller

Post by **Packedup** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:22 am

Pyoor_Kate wrote:I think it should be possible. There's actually a 'central locking' kit sold by Maplin which 'fits any car', although I've not looked to see what is in it.

4 motors, some brackets, wiring and a control box as far as I know.

The servos (what is the plural of servo?) are fitted to the door shell either direct or using the brackets, and have rods that fit to the top and latch onto the lock actuating rod (wherever that is on a Minor, I can't remember!). It might be possible to hook the end of the rod off the servo onto the back of the barrel if there's enough space and it doesn't take too much shove to move it.

One of the servos will be the "control" one, so when the lock is turned the plunger makes contact inside sending the signal to the others to lock or unlock. I assume the control box can also be rigged up to a keyless entry system/ alarm. Though if the drivers door servo is actually just a dummy one (it could be, as it only needs to send the signal if you're using the key on that door) then you'd also need a proper motorised one in its place.

The servos are a straight swap for the factory fitted BL/ Rover ones of the 80s and probably 90s (certainly Monties and Metros had the same) and I know the drivers side one I had from a Rover Metro was fully wired to operate as a servo as well as switch for the others.

Post by **paulhumphries** » Sat Apr 14, 2007 12:43 pm

malminor wrote:the shoot bolts look the way forward, I have found some 12volt solonoids in the RS Components catalouge, with enough pin travel to work, just got to figure out the location / wiring to remote controller

Have a look at boot locks on cars with central locking.
They are often a lot more "meaty" than the door types.
I've got a couple lying around and they certainly produce a satifying "clunk" when operated compared to the weedy motor wine of a door item.
I might be wrong but seem to think doors are a motor and screw thread to move the operating arm. The boot ones have a chuffing big electromagent solenoid instead !

Paul Humphries.

Post by **steve4063** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 7:23 am

has anyone actually managed to sort out the central locking yet

i had the same thought as someone else a dead bolt going into the door frame

i'd be very interested as i'm sure lots would if it's been done

Post by **alex_holden** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 7:43 am

steve4063 wrote:i had the same thought as someone else a dead bolt going into the door frame

How would you unlock it if the battery flattened itself?

Post by **RogerRust** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 8:09 am

How would you unlock it if the battery flattened itself

Or get out if you had an accident that lost the battery voltage. I think it would have to fail safe, but then all you nee to do is cut the power to open the doors.

I have changed the locks on mine. I would be interested to let other people try their keys (gently) to see if the universal key problem is only on old locks.

I have a steering wheel lock with a very loud sounder that goes off when disturbed - opening the door is enough to set it off ( I then have 10 secs to put the code in). I know the limitations, but a lot of noise attracts attention.

Post by **salty_monk** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 8:34 am

No reason you couldn't have a manual lever on the inside to work the bolts as well in case of accident.

If the battery went flat you could (as a last resort) open the boot & take out the seat butterfly bolts & climb in that way...... No real need for central locking on the boot!

Dan

Post by **salty_monk** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 8:36 am

Forgot to say, they should be lever actuated with an over centre pivot for security, you could probably get it to bounce if you relied on the solenoid to keep it in place.....

Dan

Post by **alex_holden** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 8:36 am

RogerRust wrote:I have changed the locks on mine. I would be interested to let other people try their keys (gently) to see if the universal key problem is only on old locks.

Fenchurch's back door has a different key to the driver's door and ignition, and it won't operate the other locks, or vice versa. They're not difficult to pick but I suspect most thieves would take the lowest-skill route of putting a brick through the quarterlight.

I'd like to watch one trying to work out why turning the ignition key doesn't make the engine start

Post by **dunketh** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:43 am

Looking back at the original issue I recon it could be done with a 4 door car.

You'd need to 'break' the latches though.

Theres a small ball bearing which holds the handles in their closed position and results in the physical 'click' you feel when locking the doors.

If you remove this bearing the latch swings un-impeded and requires hardly any force to move it. (I know as the bearing has falle out in one of my latches)

With a long lever attached to a pivot (think see-saws here) you could attach one end to a short arm that comes off the sqaure lock spindle and attach the other end to a central locking solenoid.
Provided the fulcrum was located in the right place on this lever you could easily exert enough force to turn the square spindle enough to unlock the door(s).

OK, its a bit of a messy setup but I'm sure the basic idea can be improved upon by someone who frankly has more time and inclination than I would!

Oh, lastly, this would need doing remotely and I'm not sure how you'd deal with the drivers door as these dont swing the handle to lock like the others do... hmm.. more work required I think...

Post by **paulhumphries** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:50 am

Have a look, in scrap yards, at boot / tailgate locking solenoids.
They are a lot more powerful then door types and one I've got (I think off Sierra) has a bellcrank type pivot.

Paul Humphries

Post by **stevey** » Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:28 pm

ive central locking i can lock and unlock all my doors from the drivers seat, cause i can reach all the locks and handles from the drivers seat!!! with a 2 door is there any need for central locking? theres only 1 other door. if security is an issue perhaps enabling the drivers door to lock from the inside?