Cheap ignition immobiliser

Post by **James Goodwill** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

Another top tip.

The cheapest ignition immobiliser...

1) Park car.
2) Lift bonnet.
3) Unclip distributor cap.
4) Remove rotor arm.

Jobs done.

James G.

Post by **Horace** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

what happerns if you loose the rotor arm ?.. Try hideing a small toggle switch with 2 wires going to the coil take of one of the wires from the coil replace it with one of the wires comeing from the switch. attach other wire to the coil wire you took off. tape them up so they look like part of the loom turn swich of when you get out the car .. back on when you get in again

Post by **les** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

Whilst on the subject of thiefproofing a moggy, I have been using for a number of years, a clamping device that stops the brake and clutch pedal being depressed, its home made and heavy duty, but quite compact.A thief could tow the car away but this is a shortcoming of most devices. A friends morris fitted with this lock, was not outside the house where it was left one morning, but was found 100 yards down the road, presumably after pushing the car out of earshot the clamp had stopped the lowlife from futher progress.
Any ideas on how to stop a vehicle from being towed away?
les

Post by **Chris Morley** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

The only way I can think of is to either fit a wheelclamp on each axle or to invent a locking device that locks the brake pedal down. The only way round this would be to lift the car onto a flat bed truck.

Post by **sidevalve** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

Hi
An anti theft technique that is quick to apply, but not obvious, is to unscrew the damper cover on the SU carb and slip a small piece of tube around the damper rod to stop the piston from rising. The engine will start but won't run. Cunning & effective.

Cheers

Dave

Post by **Gareth** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

Hello, there!

With regard to Horace's post; be careful about adding a switch to the ignition system. There was one fitted to Phyllis when I bought her, and I thought it was a smashing idea, until it shorted out, and took half the ignition system with it.

The moral, is make sure that it's sufficiently rated (25A or maybe 50A), or find another way of immobilising the car.

What about isolating the fuel pump with a hidden ignition switch? A lot of work, maybe, but no-one's going to look for an extra keyhole, are they? The car will run, and drive, but not very far...

Post by **Chris Morley** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

On reflection I'm sure that removing the rotor arm would stop 99% of Moggie thefts. I always do this to my cars when we go on holiday. Lets face it, you can't make a Minor secure (locks and sidelights being so easy to get past). For extra security, fit a flashing red LED light. The thief will be convinced he can't find & disable a hidden immobiliser. This light will put off most thieves anyway.

It's a cheap item , so if you're worried about losing the one you've removed carry a spare. There's hundreds of hiding places in the car inside doors, seat cushions or the dash. Why not put it somewhere it will take you a few minutes to get at it. In the boot behind the (clamped) spare wheel is a good one. And you never know, you might end up using it if the original fails.

One thing - you'll also need a torch. Very difficult to re-assemble in the dark as I found out a few hours ago.[ This Message was edited by: Chris Morley on 17-05-2002 02:57 ]

Post by **stephen** » Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am

There was one in the MM magazine some time ago.

A large block of wood with a padlock attached was connected to the bottom rail of the drivers seat forcing it foward against the steering wheel.

Very neat.

Post by **salty_monk** » Sat Nov 22, 2003 5:48 pm

Mine has a period pull switch (lights or similar) mounted in a semi hidden location which cuts out the fuel pump. Great unless you keep forgetting to switch it yourself! Not difficult to do either....

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 7:07 pm

Unclip distributor cap

works ok except you get your hands dirty. I've been doing this on and off recently...... and broke down today!!

The downside is that you have to refit the darn thing often in the dark/cold/rain and sometimes in a rush (like when the starter motor's packed up on your other car and you're going to be late for a meeting)

Back in the UK for another handful of days, so I took my Honda starter motor to be repaired today.... and broke down on the way home!
last week I must have badly fitted the dizzy cap and the bottom clip had come loose. Of course this happens in rush hour on a 90mph 3 lane dual (duel) carriageway when passing the spot where another major road feeds on.

The engine just cut out dead on me as the dizzy cap had become dislodged.
After making it to the verge alive, I then remembered the point of my journey (The other car is off the road) - Got a very sinking feeling......
I left my torch in the house and it's pitch black.
Fortunately it's possible to diagnose a loose dizzy cap in the dark

I look forward to having a better alternative to removing the rotor arm (top of my priority list for that car)

Post by **Cam** » Thu Dec 11, 2003 10:11 pm

WOW!!! What a coincedence!!!

I too broke down today in the 3rd lane of the motorway and barged my way across to the hard shoulder.

Too much rain and I was going too fast. My old Rover's electrics could not keep up!!

Started again after 50 mins of waiting on the hard shoulder just before Stafford services on the M6 in the dark (7am)!

I was driving my Rover because my Moggy has clutch / exhaust problems at the moment, so I know how you feel Ray and it's not nice!!

Bl**dy cars!!

Post by **d_harris** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 12:34 am

Cam, Which of yours do you drive? The Trav?????? From the photos it looks like the 69 and 52 are both servicable but if I had three (or two) mogs I would have major difficulties choosing. Are you gonna keep the trave green and have a fleet? or change the colour for a bit of a change?

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 2:53 am

The 52 is going to take a while after your chat with Fred at the AGM, if I was told correctly of your future plans, where will you find the time ? its alright for Fred as he is semi retired (he has not worked for a few years)

Post by **Cam** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 9:56 am

Dan, I drive the '69 4-door at the moment as the traveller needs restoring and the '52 needs work also. I also cheat a bit and drive a Rover and Sierra sometimes! I have not decided on the colours yet. I think the trav will stay green, I am toying with the idea of changing the '52 to black and the '69 - who knows!!

Kevin, I enjoyed talking to Fred and Bill at the AGM and yes it will take lots of time, but it's a hobby so weekends (and summer evenings) will probably be used!

He might be semi-retired but I am 29 and have the next 30 odd years to work on them (which it will probably take!)

To be honest I would like the '52 to be as good as I can get it myself and it won't be used that much (unlike the scruffier others). Mainly for shows and summer country driving....................

Post by **MrA.Series** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 12:57 pm

Why do all the early posts state they were posted on the 1st of Jan 1970?

Post by **Cam** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 1:59 pm

They were transferred from the old messageboard and it dated them all 1st of Jan 1970.

Post by **d_harris** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 2:24 pm

oh yeah! Tis freaky I was -14 years old then!!!! so that must mean I was posting from beyond the womb

Post by **Cam** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 4:19 pm

Yes, I know what you mean, I was -4!!

Post by **Kevin** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 4:44 pm

Well I stopped being a teenager then

but not mentally

Post by **vulcan72** » Fri Dec 12, 2003 5:05 pm

When i got my trav it had a tube with two holes and a slot cut out of one end, i had no idea what it was untill i read the tech tips on security.
It goes over the handbrake. and with the gear stick in first the slot fits to the stick and you then put a ordinary yale padlock through the two holes, its easy and cheap and i think, as it keeps the handbrake on, it also stops the towing away senario.