Morris Minor Owners Club

thanks Dave, I'll have to get a pair of those. The polys are an interference fit, didn't I know it, getting the front of the spring on was quite a long job.[frame][/frame]

getting just enough thread to peek through so the nut and washer can wind in the poly bush was the only way forward.
Just the split pin to go..
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I'm still waiting for my new pins to arrive, in the meantime the reds go in the chassis...[frame][/frame]

nice finger tight fit..[frame][/frame]

and the blues go in the spring[frame][/frame]

I agree with David, I'd do something about the rear axle brackets before re-assembly. I'd reckon that damage has been caused by driving with the "U" bolts being too loose at some stage
Always something to do isn't there

Yes you're both right,the Axle Brackets needed re-shaping using a level to get them flat, this left small v shaped splits in the sides of the brackets, I welded in four steel darts so the shape would hold the brackets flat on the spring, but my
angle-grinder broke, lucky B&Q are open on Sundays. Job done, they sure aint pretty, but they're strong. Hopefully my box of parts will arrive tomorrow, I'll make sure the new U bolts are done up nice and tight.[frame][/frame]

David,
Another few "ticks in the boxes ". Well done.

When you started your restoration I know you had no idea... just how intimately you would know your vehicle at this stage.
I bet you could almost do repairs blindfold now ? You're not just a " bl***y amateur " now ( pardon my French ) you've got real street cred
Bob

I'm looking (or lurking) on in fascination as always, David! Patching those axle brackets is a good idea, but probably not a permanent fix - when next you have the axle off, you'll want to get those repair panels and do the job from scratch. Seems like a pain, but for the best, given how much stress goes through that area.

Nice to know you all have the same comic strips we do...Pearls Before Swine is in my newspaper, too.

Hey Bob, Street Cred. my kids would chuckle, But I appreciate the thought, thanks Bob, Fin, long time Buddy, hows it going?
glad you liked the cartoon, I've embarrassed myself before on here publishing workbench closeups with newspaper behind the subject, and never checking the content lol. More pictures to follow when my rear suspension parts arrive, Monday the 2nd hopefully.[frame][/frame]

the parts were on the table when I got home from work, so with the winter evening light quickly fading, I set to work, as it happens, I didn't need the rubber plates and the holed brackets, neither are wide enough to fit my pup springs.[frame][/frame]

the pin is in, and no hassle[frame][/frame]

shackles going on smoothly enough[frame][/frame]
loosley bolted up until the full weight of the pup is down on the wheels, then tighten them up to 40 ft/lbs
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the welded up axle brackets sat nice and flat on the top of the spring, once I'd realised the rubber plates and holed brackets would not fit. The pickup rear suspension is a lot different from the cars. The u bolts tightened up to 40 ft/lbs, before the lock nuts,not included with the U bolts, were torqued up too.
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one test drive later and the rear suspension felt firm and effective, now it's time for a well earnt cup of tea.
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Great job! I bet that firm suspension is a very satisfying thing. Not too much is up - just got off the forums for a little while. Taking a break, you know. My Minor's due for an upgrade project, so stay tuned!

sound interesting, I'll watch out for that Fin. Went to Tangmere aviation museum and Alice has a bad oil leak from the engine somewhere, that's the next fix, it never really ends does it.[frame][/frame]

David
Sorry to hear about the oil leak.Check the simple things first, oil filter worked loose, rocker cover loose, sump nuts loose or one dropped out, timing cover on the front of the engine , distributor shaft " O " ring broken.

Trace back the oil drip / slick to it's highest point to identify the cause.A careful engine clean up to get surfaces clean, will
help your Sherlock Holmes endeavours.If it proves inconclusive, at least you can start up the engine and then see a little
more clearly where it's coming from.

When you're observing, with your torch in hand in the engine bay ,take care to keep the parts of your anatomy which you value, away from moving parts e.g fan belt and pulleys !! Good luck with the search.
Bob

thanks for that advice Bob, the car up on axle stands at the front, cleaned up the lower engine using an old towel and some wd40. The with the engine running, torch in hand watching for leaks. Nothing for a while, them as she started warming up...[frame][/frame]

a positive steady dripping from the rear of the sump between the flywheel steel plate[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

a far slower hardly noticeable leak also came from the timing chain cover, dripping down onto the front of the sump[frame][/frame]

I'm concerned with the rear leak, only two years ago I had the engine out to change the rear scroll gasket, maybe I should have used gasket sealant and fitted a new oil pump.[frame][/frame]

David
Timing chain cover, see if " nipping up " the bolts does the trick.Gentle spannering not full blown ...3 Weetabix for breakfast / these nuts aren't ever going to come loose again ! If just the same then ..new gasket solution ,after putting the cover on a flat surface, to make sure it's not warped. Dress the holes flat, metal drift and hammer.

Rear of engine
Before pulling out the engine ( what else do you do with your spare time ? ) are you positive it's between the engine back plate
and the gearbox flange and not the back of the sump gasket / bolts ?
The area is difficult to inspect in that gap, so view at 45 degrees one side and have the torch pointing in your direction at 45 degrees to the gap.
From the pictures, the sump has "seen some action " over the years and it may be suffering some distortion on the flange, as a result.
I've got everything crossed for you, that it's the easier option.
Bob

cheers Bob, I wondered if I had not done the sump bolts up tight enough, a couple of careful turns and two sheared off, rather easily I might add, out came the sump and new bolts quickly sourced from Hove's Namrick nut and bolt shop. As you can see here, the rear sump gasket is prim suspect.[frame][/frame]

now if only I had just replaced the bolts instead of nipping them up.[frame][/frame]

any advice on getting them out, I'd try a snot of weld on them, but I'm afraid of getting weld on the join line, drilling them out might be a safer alternative.[frame][/frame]

David, IIRC those bolt holes are right through the flange on the block and they come out the other side. So, just touch the protruding thread with edge of a grinding wheel to flatten it, nice light cents pop in the middle and a sharp drill applied and when the drill bites it will most probably screw the remaining stud/thread right out the other side.

If the holes are blank then you can obtain left handed drill bits that may turn the thread out, if not at least you will have a hole to start more drilling. You will need a reversible drilling machine though.

thanks for your quick reply Drivewasher, I did try drilling it, then I welded a "snot" of weld (to use Chickenjohn's phrase) and tapped a small socket onto the protrusion and wound it right out[frame][/frame]

I found that using the lowest weld setting just made the weld twist right off, so I set the highest setting "two. High" and the weld was strong enough to take the torque of unwinding the bolt.[frame][/frame]

once the flat was cleaned up and polished to make a good tight seal, I cut a slot In one of the old bolts and worked it into all the threads to remove any dirt particles, then some gasket silicon on the gasket and it all went back on smoothly. After a run on idle, no sign of any oil leaking out, ditto to a quick trip to the petrol station and back, but dropping off my daughter to college on the other side of town, the dripping was noted, as bad as before. So undaunted, I'll try again with brand new sump gaskets and sealant, see if I can kill the drip[frame][/frame]