Morris Minor Owners Club

Let's face it guys - he wanted to take the wire out no matter what we all said. He'd convinced himself that this was the cause of his problem. My guess is he'll look again at what was said, go back through all the steps and solve his problem OR he'll rip the wire out, realise he hasn't solved the problem, have to find a way to put the wire back, and then have to go through the steps to solve the problem. Either way - there is only one way - the right way!!!

Knowing that there are not that many fora about for the good ol' minor, my second guess is that he will be watching the various posts about how to do things and will probably log in again under a different name. Sad really because all we really wanted to do was help solve a problem. Taking your bat home gets you no nearer getting the issues sorted!

now on the other side as well.

Seems all the experts are wrong!

He can rip his wire out and replace it but still he's going to have that pesky matter of the blowing fuse. Wait, rewiring it might solve the shorting problem though????

I couldn't help smiling to myself as I read throught this thread, and I think if someone put this on twitter or something it would go viral.

strangely enough i have the problem at the moment the horn stays on, it was fine before i loosened the column bolts to access the instruments i have fitted in my glove box cover, i think i have disturbed the position of the brass ring where the horn contact sits on the column , but i did reline the brakes and do the sump gasket just in case it helps............ i now have a leaking sump and the car veers madly to one side under braking .....if i remove the petrol tank will it solve the problem once and for all ?








































actually my horn is staying on but i shall be sorting it this afternoon ........hopefully the rain will stop long enough for me to venture outside

I love this website
"say not the struggle nought availath"

It's more likely to be the coil than the petrol tank........

<Faints>

Thanks Bassman for resurrecting this thread. Somehow I missed it before and I enjoy a goodlaugh.
Has Gus got the record for the shortest forum membership?

Spammers don't last for 6 posts.

sorted my prob the steering column had indeed moved and the horn contact was resting against the metal column not the brass collett , mot tomorrow or wednesday .

Fingers crossed for you!

make that friday or saturday morning , found another small bit of cosmetic welding that needs doing , i could leave it till after the mot but rather get it done first , no probs with the mot as my mate who has overseen the restoration with me is an mot inspector and classic mini restorer himself so its a nailed on pass , not to say there is anything that will be waived , he's been a pain in the ass making sure i've done stuff belt and braces. just be glad when its finished its been an eight /nine year project for one reason or another !

I now it's a bit late but...

I wonder if the OP had somehow managed to put the switch wire at the horn onto the same horn terminal as brought in the battery 12V. Or the two had shorted together across the horn's terminals.

That would account both for the horn not working, and the fuse blowing every time he pressed the horn push.

But I doubt he would have listened!

As has been pointed out over and over again - a faulty column wire can only result in the horn SOUNDING - not the fuse blowing....... I wonder if it's still blowing that fuse after 4 years?

I have just replaced the indicator stalk on my 1960 morris because a niece wrenched off the stalk light (Lesson: never let a 4 year old sit in the drivers seat...). The indicators now work fine and I am pretty sure I have the right assembly but the light at the end of the stalk does not and now the horn sounds every time I connect the power. Also, I seem to have an extra black (Earth?) cable coming out the indicator stalk ....clearly I have something wrong. The previous assembly had the earth connected to the collar of the assembly, not the terminal provided, and the cable at the other end was floating loose when I found it, but maybe it fell out of somewhere. I can't find a suitable vacant connector to connect it to. ALthough there are a lot of spare wires down there!

Late to this thread, but I will take the advice offered, unlike some.

OK, I should read the thread before engaging with the post.... I didn't have the contact engaging with the steering column slip ring.... horn now works.
Just the little indicator light problem to solve now, but that might just be the bulb.

Did you manage to sort it, the indicator bulb ?

I had a similar problem after my LHD conversion. I only got it to work by installing a separate earth wire from the column to the the body.

I got the indicator bulb working by earthing the indicator stalk... but now the horn doesn't work! I think a separate earth from column to body is now required.

Am I right in saying that the horn push has permanent earth. Pushing the button makes up the circuit via the 'live' side...?

The horn normally has a permanent live feed from the fuse box to one terminal, the other terminal is earthed via the horn button to make a circuit.

Phil