Front damper

[bmcecosse]

Has anyone succeeded in removing the top suspension arm from a front damper? And if so - how ???

[IslipMinor]

Roy, A very long time ago I replaced the front dampers with some 'heavy duty' ones and seem to remember needing to remove the top arm from the old dampers. The 'heavy duty' ones turned out to have some washers under the valve spring to increase the damping pressure. I also used either SAE30 or 40 oil with good effect.

If my memory serves me correctly, (~45 years ago), I removed the castellated nut and applied some force with a puller to try and pull the top arm off (it did not budge). With the puller still in place I gave the boss of the top arm and hefty whack with a big hammer (~1.5lb) and the arm then came off the damper spindle. I have used the same technique many times on ball joints, i.e. apply some load to start with, a sharp 'whack' and the joint comes free.

Now, of course there are good 'ball joint splitters' available very easily, but even then the odd really tight one responds to the above treatment!

[bmcecosse]

Thanks Richard - I've already tried the puller to no effect, and some 'taps'.. I guess I have to try try again - probably add in the oxy/acet torch for good measure... Anyone else had any success ?

[Trickydicky]

According to Declan's post it took 5 tons of pressure and heat to remove the arm.
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... r&start=15
Any particular reason it needs removing Roy?

[bmcecosse]

Yes - I know Declans technique, but I don't have the equipment... New seals needed. Seals have gone hard with age/storage.

[Trickydicky]

The only way to replace the front seal is to remove the rear plug carefully as per Declan's tutorial.
I would have thought a man with your contacts would be able to get a rear plug machined up Roy

[Declan_Burns]

To replace the seals there is no need to remove the arm. The only reason we removed it was because on the damper in my article the arm was broken off. You press the whole shaft out from the rear. I have a source for replacement plugs but haven't had the chance to test them yet as I'm still in the Rehab. Some dampers have a safety clip which needs to be destroyed before the shaft can be pressed out.
Regards
Declan

[BLOWNMM]

I have just finished reconditioning two front shocks with new piston seals and fitted lip seals. I removed the arms from the shafts to enable the seal surfaces to be polished in a lathe. One arm took 8 tons to press the shaft out and the other 10 tons.
Cheers Bob

[bmcecosse]

Yes - thanks both - but I really don't have any of these resources, so my only hope is to pull the arm off and fit new seals..

[Jaywhy]

Bob
Do you need that tonnage to re-assemble?

[bmcecosse]

I imagine it will slide on easily if HOT!

[BLOWNMM]

G'day all
Jaywhy - when I pressed the shafts out one came out with my 8 ton press but the other required 10 tons on a bigger press. After wire brushing the splines and lubricated them with Molytec Nickel Anti Seize they were easily reassembled on my smaller press. I would estimate about 3 possibly 4 tons to push them back. The one which required 10 tons to remove had more corrosion on the splines.
Cheers Bob

[philthehill]

bmc
Does not the railway workshop have a heavy duty press and suitable plates to go between the arm and damper body that you could use for a one of arm removal?
Phil

[bmcecosse]

They certainly do - but due to health problems I'm not there at the moment....

[don58van]

due to health problems I'm not there at the moment....

Roy -- I'm sorry to hear that you aren't 'firing on all four' at the moment. Perhaps its your coil

Look after yourself and make sure Mrs BMCecosse gives you plenty of spoiling.

Don

[bmcecosse]

Thanks Don.... Roy

[aupickup]

speedy recovery roy all the best