Morris Minor Owners Club

Here is a link to the cross section of the sill section, it may help to visualise it better.

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-m ... 51-71.html

Richard

Thanks for the link.
I can see how the sill/floor/inner sill go together but the issue I have is being unable to remove the short section at the front of the boxing plate.
My query was to enquire if it was safe to cut the end of the boxing panel and weld it to the remaining portion of the of the original boxing panel.
I will try upload some photographs of the area I mean.

More pictures.

More pictures of the offside area of the vehicle.

As can be seen by the above pictures I have had to chase the rust from the rear going forward.
The reasoning behind this was to try and get the panels in the same order as it left the factory, I'm not going down the factory fresh restoration but simply working this way as it's easier to mate panels together if they are all done together.
So up to now I have removed the rear wing flange, bottom of the quarter panel, and the entire sill structure apart from the mainly solid inner sill.
The A post has some rot around the first inch or so, so my intention is to make some repair panels for there and possibly make or buy a repair panel for the B post as mine is looking a bit ragged.

The sill and inner panels are now ready to be tacked in place and then I can fit the quarter panel and in turn fit the wing flange.

There will still be a few repair panels to make for the inner quarter panel which has lost about an inch to rust at the bottom.

The main concern at the moment is my inability to remove the last 4 inches of the boxing plate above the inner sill, I cannot get into it without disturbing the A post, which I don't want to do, so the only option I have is to cut a section of the new panel out to suit the remaining portion of the original boxing plate.

I have thought about it and think it will still retain its strength as it's only a 4 inch section which will be seam welded to the original piece.

So that's today's update, it was a dirty one grinding and cutting but I'm happy with the progress thus far.

I have added a couple of videos on you tube the links are above showing what I have done today.

Regards

Dermot.

So another day of grinding and cutting.
I thought long and hard about slicing the top off the new boxing plate in order to make it fit with the remainder of the original boxing plate.
In the end I did in order for the new plate to sit in the correct place.
Unfortunately I did make a bit of a mistake and cut the top off the new boxing plate and when I cam to fit it I realised it was in fact 5mm narrower than the original so I now have a 5mm gap where it should be tight, I'm a bit mad about that issue, so a word of warning make sure you measure your panels carefully and not make the same mistake.

Today I also took stock of the state of the drivers side floor and made the decision to cut out the rot and plate the hole.
The repair panel was tack welded along the floor and sits in the original position underneath the inner sill.
The repair panel was then seam welded into position apart from the last inch or so as I have a cross member end to repair.

The B pillar was next and on checking it out it was actually solid albeit it a bit rough looking so rather than mess with it I have decided to clean it up and work with it.

So that was this afternoons little job.

The outer sills were then put into position and held on with my grips while I made sure everything was correct, there is a little bit of fettling to be done but everything seems to be roughly in the correct position.

Now I'm happy with the sills position and checked with the other side, it's time to take them all off again and begin making the repair patches for the front most sill end where it meets the floor and A post.
I have previously repaired the hinge side of the A post so began with a repair panel on the closing panel side.
Due to the position of the boxing plate I have to have the inner sills in the correct place first and in order to fit those I have to cut the rear floor panel.
There is a lot of rust at the rear, and there is evidence of previous repairs around the spring hanger.
So I have cut the majority of it out and noticed how close it comes to the actual hanger, I'm wondering if welding alongside the actual spring hanger is an MOT failure?
So I have yet more metal removed and only a small amount of welding completed.
Bear in mind I have chased the rust from rear to front in order to fit the rear wing flange, that has yet to be fitted but the remainder of the rust will have to be cut out first.

The flitch panel has some localised rust patches but thankfully the kidney panels are sound, so I have cut the rust out in readiness to make a panel to repair.
Seems most of my time is spent cutting rust out rather than welding, but I know there is a limit as to how much I can remove before having to replace panels.
Up to now the patches are small and do not affect the structural integrity of the shell.

Until next time.

Dermot.

Thanks for update Dermot.
I find your description and photos really helpful as I'm in similiar position myself. Got over my disappointment that repair panels dont just drop into place but im mastering (slowly) "Fettling" and quite enjoying it now
Keep the updates coming great seeing the progress.
My wife is collecting all the rusty pieces as shes making artwork so Im expecting a statue called "Morris"

Richard

Thanks Richard

It's really enjoyable working my way through the rusty bits.

I have a couple of videos showing some of the progress up to now.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsbZsl ... Z08ArjvOjA

Dermot, Your videos made clear how the floor replacement and cill panels go together. I note you mentioned you wasnt looking forward to replacing the 1/4 panel. Nor was I but I spent a lot of time ensuring both wings, door and the trim bar that fits between front and back wings all line up using a straight edge this gave the position for the bottom of the 1/4 panel. The old adage measure twice (or more) cut once applies. Plus tea scratchy head and pondering for a while really helped as well Have a great day everyone

Richard

The videos are there to help others in the same situation as me, I never looked at how the sills went together before I started this project and could only find limited information on the net, but I think I now know how they go together so I wanted to share the info with others.
Plus its a living record of the work carried out on "Gracie".

As for the quarter panels, I have to admit I'm slightly apprehensive about starting that particular panel as it has to be spot on as you say to look right once everything is bolted back together.
But its looming closer.

I have the rear floor to sort first, again I'm just going to let a panel into the floor, there will be plenty of strength, certainly more than there was before, then work round the spring hanger and associated inner panels then its the big job of cutting the quarter panel and welding in the repair.
I will be taking that very slowly so as not to over heat the panel, using my air line to cool each weld as I go along.

Watch this space.

Dermot.

A couple of tips for consideration when welding body work.

1. Only do short stretches say 4" and then leave and go to another section and do another say 4". Build up the length of welding slowly to reduce the possibility of panel distortion.

2. Use a heat sink. I use a piece of flattened copper 28mm pipe about 6"-7" long clamped right by the weld to be done. The copper pipe takes out the severest of heat and so reduces the possibility of distortion.

The details relating to the bodywork repairs of "Gracie" are very helpful. Thank you Murrayminor.

Regards
Phil

Hi
I know its too late now but if you have to do the other side or for anyone else there is a finger belt sander either air or electric that if you can identify the spot welts you can grind the top of weld and remove the piece. There are many makes all the same tool.Sorry for delay in information but if it doesn't help you it may help someone else.Try to get the best belt possible as too cheap and they dont last very long.Personally i would use 3M but they are expensive to buy but you will save money in the long run ,as long as you dont snag them.also oil the front roller a lot and if air tool oil that it will last longer

https://ige.ie/air-sander-10mm-belt/?gc ... PAEALw_wcB

I have always found these type of spot weld removers to be best.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13Pcs-Double ... 8b87e86402

ian.mcdougall wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 6:09 pm Hi
I know its too late now but if you have to do the other side or for anyone else there is a finger belt sander either air or electric that if you can identify the spot welts you can grind the top of weld and remove the piece. There are many makes all the same tool.Sorry for delay in information but if it doesn't help you it may help someone else.Try to get the best belt possible as too cheap and they dont last very long.Personally i would use 3M but they are expensive to buy but you will save money in the long run ,as long as you dont snag them.also oil the front roller a lot and if air tool oil that it will last longer

https://ige.ie/air-sander-10mm-belt/?gc ... PAEALw_wcB

I have been trying to identify the spot welds with some wet and dry and a block, up to now it has worked ok, I have missed one or two though.
Thanks for the tip.

philthehill wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 6:21 pm I have always found these type of spot weld removers to be best.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13Pcs-Double ... 8b87e86402

They are the type I'm using, I find the spot weld and centre punch it then drill ot out.I have found them superb.I bought a set from Machine Mart I think.

The last time I used the spot weld cutter was when rebuilding the bulkhead on my now sold Ser 3 Lightweight. I did not cut right through both metal sheets but only the one to be retained. I then fitted the new panel and puddle welded the new panel to the retained panel through the holes and the welds looked very neat when all done and painted and no filler required either.
Previously I had used the spot weld cutter when replacing the cross member on my Minor which is another story.
Phil

Just a short update, I have been working from home so only managing a couple of hours a day in the garage, I tend to try and keep my weekends free from working on my car to save my wife from endless boredom.
Having aligned all the sill panels and checked my measurements from the opposite side of the car (ignoring the three boxing plates on the passenger side)
I have the outer sill set where it will live, but before I can do anything else I have the inner sill to repair, this involves cutting out the bottom lip or what's left off it and letting in a new lip, the seat belt captive nut is also in this area but is solid so I intend to cut the repair panel around the seat belt nut and repair the inner sill. there is also the portion of the inner sill that runs rearwards alongside the front most spring hanger.
The hanger area has been repaired in the past, but given the work carried out elsewhere I intend to open the rear seat base and check the condition of the steel above the spring hanger, just to be on the safe side.
I can place a steel rod in the hanger and when under pressure there is some slight movement (having said that there is a ruddy great hole beside the hanger where I have cut away the floor so its bound to be a bit unstable.

I seem to be taking forever to get the sills fitted but before I can do any of that I have numerous jobs to repair before I can go any further.

Welding is not my strongest point, but I can make a strong joint albeit not very pretty, so please excuse the welding in the following photographs, it was done lying on my back and welding upside down, not ideal for a beginner!!

The joint is strong and sound so that's the main thing, to say it wont be seen would be like a cop out but it actually will never be seen so I'm happy with it.

Once the rear most inner sill is repaired and the spring hanger investigated and repaired if necessary I can then put the rear floor repair panel in and the Drum roll..... the boxing plate can finally be fitted.

My intention with the boxing plate is to drill it along its length and spot weld (or fill the holes with weld) did someone say puddle weld?
Then seam weld it along the outer sill to add a bit of strength.

I appreciate people will get bored of me spending ages on one section, but as its my first time, I have to measure and check, whereas an experienced restorer will know how it all goes together.

Bear with me I will get there....eventually.

Regards

Dermot.

Some photographs added.

In the first photograph above, you are looking at the rear most section of the inner sill where it turns and enters the boot area.
The only way to see this panel is to remove the rear most boxing plate.

The bottom of my plate was rotten so I intend to make another, I take it this panel is welded to the sill as per the main boxing plate?

I can see there is a repair panel available but as its just a straightforward piece I may as well make my own.