Oil Pipe Fitting

[Chief]

I required a new oil pipe which turned into a nightmare to fit, especially as it was 1/2" too long for my car.

So I'm posting these tips to help others, some of them are not my own as I contacted Minor Services for advice.

1) Check that the pipes nut that connects to the oil filter assembly does thread on before attempting to put it in the correct position.
2) If required, loosen the oil filter assembly from the block to allow for more freedom of movement for the pipe.
3) Get the pipe on the oil filter assembley first, then onto the engine block, if all else fails you could try to swivel it to the block after removing the distributor.
4) If the pipe is too long, here is how I did it in the end using a tire iron (photo taken after I'd succeeded and got the bolt tightened up for testing before washer fitting):

IMG_0873.JPG (1.17 MiB) Viewed 1890 times

Note: I did damage one of my washers at my attempts to screw in the bolt when trying by hand, so use a lever to avoid this (I put the damaged side of the washer directly below the bolt head in the end).

5) The nut that goes on at the filter assembly requires a lot of tightening, I was worried I'd damage the pipe so had a small oil leak on starting, it's tight now but still a few drips which could be run off from the previous - so make sure everything is shoulder/arm breakingly tight

[svenedin]

Rather than using force and straining the thread would it not have been better reshape the bends in the pipe (using a pipe bender so as not to crush the tube) so that it fitted without any strain?

[philthehill]

The pipe between the engine block and filter head must not be under any strain or deflection forces otherwise the pipe can fracture with disastrous consequences.
To get over the possibility of fracture a flexible pipe to replace the metal pipe is available.
http://www.minispares.com/product/class ... AIDED.aspx
There are several design/shapes of pipe between the block and filter head and the right pipe must be fitted.
There are also differences with the union screwed into the filter head and so again the right union must be used.
The copper washers must be in perfect condition and annealed to ensure that the washers do their job.
The fitment of the oil transfer pipe must be perfect with no thoughts of 'that will do'.

[Chief]

Rather than using force and straining the thread would it not have been better reshape the bends in the pipe (using a pipe bender so as not to crush the tube) so that it fitted without any strain?

I don't think it would have been possible to bend it off the car and know precisely when the horizontal straight was lined up perfectly to where the engine block hole should be even if I had tools such as a pipe bender.

Also I don't think it's straining the thread as the pipe once prised sideways (using the bolt head for a flat surface and so I wasn't damaging the pipe itself) could then be left slack and then the bolt put in because it had regained the correct (and identical to my original pipes) shape

The copper washers must be in perfect condition and annealed to ensure that the washers do their job.

Another point I could have added was not to pick up the gas lamp by the hot end because it was quite painful