Seized engine
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- Minor Friendly
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Seized engine
Hi all, got myself a 1964 morris minor traveller, my problem is that it has a seized engine I have removed the plugs and put some deisel down (that did nothing) so I have removed the cylinder head . The bored are good with no rust but I put lots of WD40 down them to see if that would free it up ( that didn't work) the engine is still solid . Has anyone had the same problem? I guess the next stage is a complete engine rebuild any advice would be great to free my engine up. Shane
- Bill_qaz
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Re: Seized engine
If no rust and bore look OK it more likely to be a siezed crank bearing main or big end.
Drop the sump and there should be perceived for and aft free play on the big end caps 1st, if all OK move to slackening main bearing caps one at a time.
Drop the sump and there should be perceived for and aft free play on the big end caps 1st, if all OK move to slackening main bearing caps one at a time.
Regards Bill
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Re: Seized engine
Hi Bill, thanks for your advice will have a look and try that. Thanks Shane
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Re: Seized engine
What is the history of the car? Has the engine seized through standing or mechanical failure? How long ago did it last run?
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Re: Seized engine
Hi I have only just got the car,the car has been stood 40 years and unfortunately it didn't come with any paperwork including logbook. Thanks Shane
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Re: Seized engine
Most engines that are not obviously rusted and are just stuck, not seized, will respond to the heavy hammer treatment - as long as the pistons are not exactly on TDC/BDC.
It is obviously better to free off the rings after removal of the pistons, but it all depends on the operator….
A round(?) end-grain chunk of wood down the bores and a smart ‘tap’ may be enough to start things moving. WD40 is, IMO, a waste of space for this application (what water is there to be displaced, I ask?).
I’ve use lump, or even a small sledge, hammer to loosen stuck engines, but for a tiny engine such as this a 2 pounder may well be more than adequate.
Tip: If rings are stuck in the piston, heating in very hot oil or warming in front of a space heater can avoid breakage.
It is obviously better to free off the rings after removal of the pistons, but it all depends on the operator….
A round(?) end-grain chunk of wood down the bores and a smart ‘tap’ may be enough to start things moving. WD40 is, IMO, a waste of space for this application (what water is there to be displaced, I ask?).
I’ve use lump, or even a small sledge, hammer to loosen stuck engines, but for a tiny engine such as this a 2 pounder may well be more than adequate.
Tip: If rings are stuck in the piston, heating in very hot oil or warming in front of a space heater can avoid breakage.
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Re: Seized engine
Hi thanks for that advice I thought about hitting the pistons but didn't want to course more damage butcwill definitely give it a go now . Thanks Shane
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Re: Seized engine
Try Coca Cola down the bores,it can work wonders
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Re: Seized engine
Hi thanks for that tip going to give it a go now. Thanks Shane
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Re: Seized engine
Hi I have just put some coca cola in my bores as recommended on 3 of the bores the cola has gone but on the 4th piston the cola is still sat there. Any advice why this is would be great. Could this be the piston that has coursed the seized engine. Many thanks Shane
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Re: Seized engine
Several reasons.
First there obviously a route past the rings on the other 3 pistons could be broken rings on those cylinders - but unlikely.
It only needs one ring gap to be sealed, to hold back the liquid. Some ring gaps might be very adjacent, helping the liquid to seep through.
Depends on how the engine was stored - exhaust on or air cleaner fitted? Some valves will be open, allowing possible moisture into the cylinder.
Oil type in the engine, when it was stored, could easily make a difference.
Just plain fortuitous is another.
It only needs one pot to prevent the engine turning. Your guess is as good as mine, which one it might be - if indeed it was only just one….
First there obviously a route past the rings on the other 3 pistons could be broken rings on those cylinders - but unlikely.
It only needs one ring gap to be sealed, to hold back the liquid. Some ring gaps might be very adjacent, helping the liquid to seep through.
Depends on how the engine was stored - exhaust on or air cleaner fitted? Some valves will be open, allowing possible moisture into the cylinder.
Oil type in the engine, when it was stored, could easily make a difference.
Just plain fortuitous is another.
It only needs one pot to prevent the engine turning. Your guess is as good as mine, which one it might be - if indeed it was only just one….
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Seized engine
Hi the car has been stood 40 years, I have only just got the car and unfortunately it didn't come with any history also the was not water or coolant in the radiator at all, when I removed the cylinder head all water ports are blocked. Thanks Shane
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Re: Seized engine
One of the engines I bought looked perfect with the head off but it had got water in the crankcase which was a rusty mess,. It did though all come appart with the pistons all going up ok, A hone, new rings and new crank bearings (had started to discolour) would have made a decent runner.
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Re: Seized engine
Remove crankshaft first, piece of 2" x 2" wood, lump hammer or small sledge, tap pistons out