Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi. Buy your bolts and grind down the heads to give clearance to the torsion bar and fit them the right way around. It is easy to bend the bars for future removal. I just use a crowbar resting on a piece of wood to spread the load and force the bar down to give me clearance. To make it easier I have...

I vagally remember reading a long time ago that when collapsible steering columns became mandatory in the early 1979s the Morris Minor was exempt due to the contract BLMC had with the GPO. I also read that the Minor steering columns were sought after in India because the tube has the same diameter a...

I bought my Traveller for £360 in 1979. It failed its first MOT on the chassis legs. I had them welded for around £30. Every year the patches got bigger. In 1983 I took the car to Bath to have both legs replaced by Charley Ware. It cost around £300, but they have net rusted since. I do soak them wit...

You are a very brave man. Good luck.

These units are very strong, but a strip down and check over would do no harm. This is one of those things that may never be a problem or could be a warning of failure. Perhaps it is time to consider a digital replacement.

In 40 years of ownership I have always used 20/50 in the engine and gearbox. The cheapest I can find and change the engine oil frequently. I am running the original 1969 engine with one rebuild in the 1990's.

I have used one of those tools made by SPQR for thirty years. 8 clicks and the job is done.

Check the oil in the dashpot.

Looking very neat. Lovely colour. My partner had a black 2 door. She was very proud of it.

Once you start it will become easier. My son in law has a Mini in similar condition and was scared stiff until I talked him through the restoration prosses. I showed him how to do welding and now the front half of the floor is done. Starting is the hardest part of the process. Just take your time an...

Not heard that before unless you mean charging off car. Some new batteries are sealed and cannot vent gasses in the same way as the older ones did. ie. gel batteries. High voltage chargers produce a lot of gas and old batteries had breather caps that could be removed to let excess gas escape. I use ...

Nice photos and good looking engine. I love a good looking engine.
I have always rested the engine on its sump with no problems.

I tipped my front wings on the rear end and poured fiberglass resin, with a little hardener mixed in, and ran it around the joint until it set. My traveller is used in all weathers.

It is all down to cost. Silicone brake fluid costs about four times the price of ordinary fluid. Times that by how many cars are produced ant it will add a huge cost to the manufacturer. Plus. the benefit won't be felt until the car is over four years old and probably passed to the second hand market.

I have used silicone brake fluid for twenty years or more without a problem. I have never changed it in all that time. Some had spilt or leaked into the cassis leg a long time ago. It dribbled out of the drain holes but the metal is unharmed. If it is good enough for Rolls Royce and Harley Davidson ...

Sound like it could be pinking (preignition). Check ignition timing.

Green with yellow tracer.

I think I had the same problem many years ago. They cannot be adjusted as far as I know so I wound a few turns of cotton thread around the spigot. This added enough resistance to stop it flopping.

That's clever. My Traveller is ok but I will try that method on my old motorbike.