Morris Minor Owners Club

If I were to do that job again I would use black Gutter seal. I have used it to seal the front wings, some of the glass and to replace the rubber seal that goes over the roof on my traveller.

It does look like blue coolant dripping down. You say your not loosing any, but over a long period a little weeping may not be noticed by looking in the radiator. Or it could be remnants of a gasket sealant. If the engine is running OK then I would not be worried.

I used a permanent black marker pen to restore mine.

Hi. I replaced mine a long time ago. Start at the back for the rear pieces. Note how they are attached to the roof struts. Once that is off undo the wire that runs from the front parcel shelf through the window pillar. Tie a long length of strong string to the end to help you pull it back when you r...

I used to test how well my Traveller was tuned by driving down the Bradford on Avon hill. If it Parped loudly all the way down to the town bridge the engine was in fine fettle, but if there was no Parp I knew it was time for a service. I am curious to know what part of the service it was that resto...

I used to test how well my Traveller was tuned by driving down the Bradford on Avon hill. If it Parped loudly all the way down to the town bridge the engine was in fine fettle, but if there was no Parp I knew it was time for a service.

Go carefully. I thought I would be clever and use a ply wood base. It was a comfortable ride but it raised the seat far too high. I relinquished and fitted the rubber base from ESM. All is fine now.

Probably should not say this, but in the past I pushed a cocktail stick into the bush to tighten up the felt bush. I did replace the bush 10 years later.
Is this bad?

That brilliant. I am going to make one tomorrow.

I used a tube of black Gutter Seal in a caulking gun. Wipe the excess off with a white spirit soaked rag.

I replaced the whole braking system in the 1990s and have only had to replace silicon fluid when I had to replace the master cylinder two years ago. It is much more expensive, but my rear brakes never seize up like they used to.

To be honest, John, it was so long ago I can't remember. It is something I have wondered about myself, but knowing how lazy I am I would not have removed the black paint (assuming it had any) and just painted it with the paint I had at hand. Red oxide is good for an undercoat. I get mine from Wilko....

Hi John. I had my chassis legs replaced in the 1980s. To stop them rusting again I painted all that I could reach with a hard Paint such as Hammerite. Then I sprayed/painted everything with Waxoil. In the thirty or more years since I did this they remain as good as day one. I also use silicone brake...

A similar thing happened to me about ten years ago. It was winter and I was just a few miles from home when I was held up in a queue of traffic. A huge plume of steam bellowed out from under the bonnet. " Oh dear " I thought. " Looks like I will have to do some work tomorrow ." I got home and checke...

Hi. Buy your bolts and grind down the heads to give clearance to the torsion bar and fit them the right way around. It is easy to bend the bars for future removal. I just use a crowbar resting on a piece of wood to spread the load and force the bar down to give me clearance. To make it easier I have...

I vagally remember reading a long time ago that when collapsible steering columns became mandatory in the early 1979s the Morris Minor was exempt due to the contract BLMC had with the GPO. I also read that the Minor steering columns were sought after in India because the tube has the same diameter a...

I bought my Traveller for £360 in 1979. It failed its first MOT on the chassis legs. I had them welded for around £30. Every year the patches got bigger. In 1983 I took the car to Bath to have both legs replaced by Charley Ware. It cost around £300, but they have net rusted since. I do soak them wit...

You are a very brave man. Good luck.

These units are very strong, but a strip down and check over would do no harm. This is one of those things that may never be a problem or could be a warning of failure. Perhaps it is time to consider a digital replacement.

In 40 years of ownership I have always used 20/50 in the engine and gearbox. The cheapest I can find and change the engine oil frequently. I am running the original 1969 engine with one rebuild in the 1990's.