Morris Minor Owners Club

I have similar setup, 1275 + HS4, on my car. I used a K&N filter inside the rear filter case from an MGA.

Thank you for taking the time to explain it. It wasn't obvious to me either, or I wouldn't have asked the question.

145x14 tires, 3.9:1 rear end, Sierra gearbox. Measured 10.5 turns of the speedo cable in 1/100th of a mile. Speedo is 1000 tpm unit. This all jives with my measurement of the odometer being out by about 5%. My question is how the speedo reading can be so far off when it's driven by the same tpm cabl...

The speedo in my series II traveller was working well but not the odometer. Taking the casing off, I discovered that several teeth were missing from the gear that drives the odometer. Easiest fix, I thought, was just to replace the whole unit with another used, known to be working one. I purchased o...

Some will argue that it's an expensive mod, but a 1275 coupled with the Sierra 5 speed and a 3.9:1 rear end makes for a really nice driving car on the highway.

I was recently given a rear axle from an MG Midget of unknown history. The axle was complete with a 3.9:1 differential which, although very dirty, looked to be in decent shape. I decided to give it a try and installed the diff on my car. Having been out for a short drive today, I found that above ab...

Just to bring this thread to a conclusion...I bought an extra clutch relay shaft and had a friend extend the arm on the pedal side by an inch. I installed the new shaft, took the car out for a ride today, and I'm pleased to report back that it works a treat and has restored the feel of the clutch pe...

I see these regularly come up for sale on ebay. My early Series II car doesn't have one. I'm not sure exactly when they were introduced, but I've often wondered what was the reason for their addition? What problem was BMC trying to solve by adding this stabalizer bar? [frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbim...

The same engine mounts were used on the early MG Midget / AH Sprite. Plenty of Midget parts listed on eBay here and in the USA. I got lucky and found a pair on eBay.

Thought I'd post a follow up on this thread. I managed to source a pair of NOS motor mounts. Just installed them on my car and the difference is like night and day. All that unpleasant vibration and resonating inside the car has gone. Back to how it used to be. On comparing the engine mounts, the 'r...

MarkyB wrote:Both the engine steady bar and the wire that retains the gearbox should be neutral, no tension on either.
It's possible that fitting the new engine mounts has moved the engine enough that they need to be checked.

Neither of those parts exist on my '54 series II.

I can't speak for Martin, but in my case the amount of vibration in the car now is VERY noticeable and bordering on unpleasant. I'm sure the car wouldn't have been like that when new.

Martin, please report back if you do try drilling holes in one of the new mounts. I'm very interested to see photos and hear results.

bmcecosse wrote:As above Mike - drill some holes through the rubber...

That's an interesting idea. Has anyone actually tried that and had success? Would be worth having a go if it works.

Having a similar issue. Recently rebuilt engine in my car is sitting on new motor mounts purchased from Moss (USA). There is an awful lot more vibration and rattles noticeable in the car since the swap. I've been wondering about how to cure it. Unfortunately I don't have the old motor mounts to go b...

Phil, your diagram shows extending the arm of the linkage mechanism by 5/8". I was going through some old threads and I found a post by Mike Perry where he said... The solution is to lengthen the arm on the relay shaft that connects to the pedal linkage by 1 inch and redrill the hole accordingl...

All back together. Took it for a drive today and the throttle is now operating smooth as expected. Cross another one off the list. Many thanks for your help.

I had a close look at the carb and it seems the throttle plate (disc) was not properly centered. It was lightly touching the body on one side as it closed causing just a wee bit of interference. After some minor adjustment, it now opens and closes smoothly. I'll put it all back on the car this eveni...

Okay, that's what I thought. So why would there be resistance? Throttle plate not positioned properly? Is that even possible on an HS-4? Other ideas?

Mick, you're saying this mod didn't make any significant difference to the feel of your clutch? What clutch did you end up using if not the 1275 Midget clutch? Phil, thanks for that info. The drawing helps me understand what the mod is talking about. I looked at the hydraulic clutch kit but ESM says...