Morris Minor Owners Club

Yes, I have fitted those removable seals and very happy with them. Much easier than dismantling the suspension to fit - and an improvement over severing the old-style seals, slipping them on, and binding them with self-amalgamating tape so they stay in place!

The wiring diagram Geoberni shows is not for the later lights being discussed though. It is for the earlier cars with the clear glass front lights and small red rear lights which operate as flashers using the Lucas DB10 cut-out unit shown in the diagram :wink: Indeed, that is so. But it hardly make...

Myrtles Man wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 12:59 pm Or, 'You can drive a horse to water but a pencil must be lead'.

Brats!

I think on my car the whole driver's door was replaced at some point, together with the handle and lock. So I have two keys as well. Easy to tell the difference though as the door key has an oblong head and the ignition/boot a rounded head. But good the pickup problem is solved. A nice, easy fix too...

A long time ago, I had an SU pump that was failing. Giving it a clout got it going again but it kept failing with increasing frequency. In the end, I had to stop every two or three miles to give the pump a whack! PITA on a busy A-road! Eventually, I tried cleaning the points but they were too far go...

Very sorry to hear that news, Alan, and I hope your treatment goes well for you and that you will be able to continue the restoration before too long.

Seconded. I had at least three rotor arms fail whilst on the road in the past but, after fitting one from the good doctor (and using his points set), I have had a trouble-free ignition system for many, many years now.

Well, the manual says to "pump approximately 1/2 pint (0.28l) of hypoid oil....into the rack housing through the nipple.." on re-assembly of the steering gear.

No. Either something wrong with your new piece of kit, or you have installed it wrongly in some way.

Be aware that, once the pump requires a clout to get it working again, the chances are it will fail again before long. At minimum, I would clean the points carefully with some very fine wet and dry paper. But if the points are too badly burnt, replacing them is the better option.

TBH Bill, I've never had the beehive springs fitted in almost 40 years of continuous Minor driving and have never had any associated brake issues, no uneven wear or any strange noises etc.

Just use common sense. The reason not to overfill is because as you steer the car, the bellows contract and expand again and if it is too full, the bellows may split on the contraction. I think you'd have to fill it pretty full of oil for that to happen. As regards grease, the EP90 oil does thicken ...

Very good! At that price I might get one myself!

Ess, if you've got a compression tester........

Yes, I would cut the red wire and fit a new connector. Just don't cut it too short!

That knocking may be a broken crankshaft. If so, it will be a lot cheaper to replace this than get a recon engine. Were it me, I would be dropping the sump to take a look. I had exactly this many years ago and with the new crankshaft the engine has been running sweetly ever since. Or it could be a f...

This sort of work is always going to be expensive, Stephen. I had a bare metal respray done about nine years ago, including repairs to the door bottoms and a repair to a front wing. I sourced my own replacement brightwork over the previous year as required (second-hand but good). The re-spray has st...

Watch the road ahead, unless you want to be dead!

So as Phil suggests, we can call it what we want then!

How long are these things meant to last anyway? I have never had to replace one but maybe modern replicas are liable to failure? I guess anything from the Dizzy Doc would be good quality though........