Morris Minor Owners Club

The main reason manufacturers for using a mechanical one is they are much cheaper, the fact that the minor stuck with an electric one when the engine was available with a mechanical pump is probably a reflection on BMC/ Leyland having very poor control over cost, not investing in their products and ...

In theory the 9 point rule appilies , the crux of the issue is to get the 9 points you must not have modified the structure of the vehicle, years ago they used to take this as choping big lumps out etc, now with some of these electric conversions they are stating even adding a small hole is enough t...

Our rebuilt engine (by myself) also leaked quite a bit I'd blown through the breather can on the tappet chest and it seemed to pass air OK, but after cutting it open, finding it was pretty choked up and fitting a new gauze (1/2 a pan scourer) we now have nowhere near as much of an oil leak (no drips...

I agree, and that is what I would do if I could find a genuine Lucas one in good condition at a fair price. I know there are plenty of "copies" but in my experience they are very poor quality. I dream of finding a NOS item for £50 :D Yes it was a bit different 12 years ago, a good used on...

For a rover v8 the easy option is to fit a range rover distributor and get OEM quality parts, thats what I a have done on my TR7V8 and it hasn't missed a beat in 12 years (only time the cap has been off is to steal the rotor arm for the range rover) spare amps are not dear either so I carry a spare ...

It is probable you will need the choke after a 3 hour rest (especialy if it hasn't been fully warmed up), not for long and probably only a half though. After it has been started once in a day I would always try starting with half choke, if it doesent start after a short try then go to full choke, th...

Yes on a warm day you barely need the choke, I had mine in within 100 metres this morning, it will need it for longer on cold winter days. Sometimes you will find it idles ok with the choke in but stumbles a bit as you try to drive it leaving th choke out a little bit for a while longer will fix thi...

Battery in the boot will be fine, the one in myTR7V8 is there and starts that just fine, the likes of car builder solutions sell the cable by the metre, 50mm2 should be fine for a minor, 70mm2 even better. It's also worth fitting a fused earth cable so if the cable gets crushed in an accident you do...

To give yourself the best start at welding it you will need to clean all the ares you intend to weld back to shiny metal, the best approach is to tack it every couple of inches to check the fit then progressively add tacks(or short bursts) in between each tack letting it cool each time, this makes i...

And remember to progressively put the choke back in as it warms up.

When referring to the original spec it's worth remembering thet would have been of 5.20/14 crossplies which are about 3% bigger than the 145/14 most people run now, the differnce between 4.22 and 3.9 is 8% so even the original cars would have been almost half way to a 3.9 diff. If you are worried ab...

At the moment the metal adjacent to the arch area doesen't look too bad, it will be intersting to see what you have once all the paint and filler have been removed, If you don't want to do the welding another option is to find a mobile welder to come to you, once you have cleaned it up and trimmed a...

Theres an interesting article in classic and sportscar, I think it was last month , where they discussed this very issue, apparantly a parlimentry commitee has told the DBLA to be more open a publish all the proceses they use but the DVLA are not even responding to that! The whole process seems to b...

to clarify we had a fleet of around 10 connect vans they did between 100k and 250k miles over 3 years on their originsl engines, all serviced with ford products to the ford service schedule. for the company cars they each do around 10 k miles but I was referring here to how well they drive not the d...

assuming the distributor is ok I can only think it's either the distributor not being clamped tightly enough or if you have a damped pulley can the outer move relative to the hub? if it's neither of those then I'd be taking a closer look at the distributor, you could also check the valve timing but ...

It is down to the oil, if you don't use the correct Ford oil with the correct addative pack the belts get damaged, most of the other oils which claim to be equivalent aren't. I've had around a dozen ecoboost fiestas as company cars and the engine is brilliant, we've had ecoboost connects to over 200...

The only serious ignition problem I have had recently is my V8 range rover cutting out at 70mph on the fast lane of a busy dual carrigeway, Turned out to be a failed 6 month old Distributor Doctor rotor arm...... Not sure where to get reliable parts from now. I do remember reading somewhere about us...

They have a more detailed set of criteria they use to determine if the structure has been modified, It's this the EV conversion industry wants published.

Yes it was all greased etc, the axle was re-built including new seals bearings, gaskets, breathers etc and one side and the pinion have never been an issue the other just keeps leaking though.

And until the DVLA change their policy (again) an historic vehicle converted to electric is likely to have its registration number voided and then be issued with a Q-plate. Only if you make any new holes in the body, looks like the parts there use the original engine mount and Brake mastercyl mount...