Morris Minor Owners Club

I imagine that the 'parp' is caused by a standing wave created in the exhaust system, effectively behaving as a brass instrument. Adding the chrome tailpiece moves the node about 6" further along and therefore 'tunes out' that resonant frequency.

I have a Durite, black plastic, flasher unit in my car. It's worked reliably for six years now after I had several of the metal can 'Lucas' units fail in the space of a few months.

James

I would be really interested to know what exhaust you end up going for, if you replace it, and how it is noise-wise. I have a mild steel exhaust from ESM on my Traveller and it is horrendously loud. I enjoy the parp sound and it did make that when new but it disappeared when I added a short chrome t...

Thanks for the reply. I'll get in touch with Woodies again to see if I can get a one side set. I think I'll settle for traditional varnish as that's what I used before and it seems to have held up well in those places. In terms of the welding, I'm now wondering if it can be done with the frame in pl...

Hi, I opened the bonnet just now to check if the fan-belt was still tight after fitting an alternator and made a shocking discovery. The nearside engine mounting tower is currently only fixed in properly by one screw! One is missing entirely and the other two are loose and at an angle. Obviously I'm...

Hi, When replacing a brake light bulb last weekend I noticed that the rear post on that side had rotted badly (nicely concealed by the varnish). Since there are various other bits of rot on that side, I've decided to replace the entire side. I've purchased a new assembled side and I've got some ques...

Thank you! I thought it seemed a bit too clean to have come off the car! I suppose it must have been caught up with the wire or something and dropped without me noticing.

Hopefully the alternator lives up to my expectations. I'm a bit tired of having to bump start my car on winter mornings!

Hi, I was just fitting an alternator to my traveller and I found this thing under the car. I assume it's come off the car but I'm not certain. Any idea what it is?
Thanks,
James

geoberni wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 14, 2019 6:02 pm

Flipping Nora; the link I posted above takes you to the topic where you saw the photo!

Feel like a right incompetent now! I didn't see that it was on page two That is indeed the post I remember. Thanks!

I did build the engine myself so it's entirely possible something is slightly out of spec

Hi, I remember there being a thread with pictures of the drip tray, showing a yellow sponge inside and a brass tap. I've tried to find it again with the search function and via Google but had no luck. The engine has the canister breather set-up, connected directly to the carb. It is definitely funct...

Hi, I remember seeing at some point on here that someone had fitted a built-in trip tray fitted to the back of the engine. It was a metal tray with a bracket, drain tap and sponge fitted inside. Does anyone remember this and whether they were ever made available to buy? My Traveller drips oil from t...

Hi,
Thanks for the replies. I did change the head gasket a few months ago so the exhaust has been disturbed. I'll check the joints. The ignition and fuel systems have been checked over recently and are all in order.

Thanks,
James

Hi,
I'm getting quite a lot of backfire on overrun, for example when going down a fairly steep hill in third gear. What could be the cause of this and is it typical? I am talking about popping and not the classic Morris Minor overrun noise or exhaust parp.

Thanks,
James

Do you by any chance live in Hastings, Hastings? If so, you might see my blue Traveller around.

I did indeed loosen and retorque in the correct sequence. I've been reading up on whether to retorque hot or cold and the explanation seems to be that the steel head studs expand more than the cast iron head so the torque is lower when the engine is hot. Therefore tightening when hot ensures that it...

I've retorqued it now and reset the valve clearances again. I'm sure I've been told in the past to retorque when cold. The workshop manual doesn't mention it but the slip with the gasket said to let it cool fully before retorquing.

All back together and running very nicely now! It took about an hour and a half to get it all back together and there were no nasty surprises. I drove it round the block to get it up to temperature and it's currently sitting with the bonnet open, ready to retorque the head later. On closer inspectio...

Hi again, Thank you for mentally preparing me for the inevitable outcome. I went through the normal steps of diagnosing an ignition problem. Plugs fine, leads fine, rotor arm and cap fine. I then checked all the valve clearances which were all spot on. I then went ahead with a compression test which...

Thanks for all the replies! I'll begin with a compression test and then try and systematically diagnose it from there. I did wonder about a sticking valve since that would make sense if it was coming free after revving a bit. I hope the head gasket hasn't gone although it's not a huge job to replace...