Morris Minor Owners Club

One of the last parts of the rebuild is the new parcel shelf, so that ties in nicely.

Currently buried in a leaf spring replacement so that’s the next job!

It seems we have a winner! Very impressive knowledge sir: that’s jogged the old man’s memory!

Thanks for the super quick reply!

Hi all,

Wondering if you could put our minds at rest here and identify this part. Father and I are going round in circles!



TIA!

Hi all,

Been a long time since I posted, but thought I’d share with you the end result of our labour.

Big Al from the start in ‘98 with a 20 year hiatus into last year’s show.

With thanks for all of your advice and comments.

philthehill, I can answer that having had it all apart and been underneath it for far too long!

It was a drill bit through the chassis for a securing clip that went a ‘little too far’!

The remote reservoir is vented and works fine. I will post a quick update in restorations.

Yeah, its a perfectly smooth hole. There are no holes in the chassis and definitely not a drill hole for sure. It's too good. Remote reservoir pipe at rear indeed, goes underneath and into engine bay. Don't know where we got this one from- we did start the project over 20 years ago, so much has been...

Hi all, Just filling up fluids tonight. Went to fill up the brakes, and fluid pouring out the chassis from around the master cylinder. Took the cylinder out, Andy the fluid is pouring out of this little hole (upper left). Anybody seen this before, as we don't know why its there. Maybe missing a blan...

Finally! Everything in and lined up correctly! :D In the end we had to cut a small section out of the bellhousing and make a new blanking plate to clear the rack which we did last week. All back in this evening with the mounts the original way round and magically everything now lines up. Prop all co...

So this evening we moved back to the engine/bel housing location issue. Lifted up, removed the mounts and found we had quite a bit of forward movement between the rubbers and the mounts. Looked to damn near line up. Did it all back up in the new position, let it down and the thing settled straight b...

Both sides down now. Following your guidance, the opposite side really didn't take long. Drivers sidelining about 3/4" high, so I guess now it's fine tuning at the rear end... Still, I'm hoping that's a small issue. Still struggling with the engine/gearbox location. I will find and update my ea...

Finally, a productive evening! We ended up removing the rear front-arm and it was the union at the front that was held fast and stopping the arm from sliding back on the bar. After tapping it out and giving it all a good clean up, it all went back together smoothly. Easy when you know how! It is sti...

Eep! Your advice is consistent and understood! And I thank you! Seems we have over-complicated it (it has been 20 years since we worked on it though guys! No excuse for not reading instructions, I know...) Haynes Manjeul didn't explain this, but it's no excuse. I can see now that the issue was that ...

Well here we are, another Thursday evening in the garage, another little problem! We are currently working on front suspension height. As we left it last time, we had modded the suspension but got the front end of the bar on the wrong spline, so it was sitting on the bump stops. We have started on t...

Prop on, gives us as ear as dammit an inch between where the UV and the gearbox seal.

If we move the engine and box forward as we most likely are going to have to, will this be in far enough?[frame][/frame]

Yeah, it's right on top BMC. Going to try the prop on in a minute to see if that will go on or not. My only only thought was that if the gap at the back of the engine to the baulkhead is okay, could it be the actual grey casting that is incorrect/too deep. The only other thing I suppose, is that by ...

Agreed, Chris' setup would help.

Thinking about it, given that the gearbox needs to be moved forward (clutch lever angle, floor pan not fitting), would it be the end of the world to rotate the engine mounts to buy us that extra inch or so that we are missing. We don't think it will foul the rad.

Can't put my finger on my calipers at the moment. Must still be hidden away after the recent *cough, last year, cough* house move! If it's the black plate behind the engine below, it seems to measure about 10mm, the grey casting measures approx. 180mm if that gives any clues.[frame] http://mmoc.org....

Cool, I will check that out tomorrow and report back.

Ta.

I agree the steady bar looks correct. If we moved the engine forward, we would have to notch the stay to get round the tap fitting. I do have that clearance to the cross member as you suggest. Not sure what plate it is, I will try and find out. All came with the original kit I guess. Can't be right ...

Just had a thought and tried the fibreglass housing in the car. Sure enough it fouls the back of the gear-lever. Seems that it will be a case of shifting the whole thing forward.