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Don't put 'gear oil' in the gearbox - it rots away the brass/bronze bits. As Phil says - likely to be the crownwheel/pinion and NOT the 'diff'unless it only happens on cornering? Perhaps a an oil change in the back axle would be worth trying. Otherwise pretty much all covered. Just a thought - is th...
The original paper/felt filter is fine - and quite frankly as often as not I didn't even change the rubber ring. Very simple to fit - typically 50p at say an autojumble and a lot less hassle than trying to get that pipe to align without kinking/twisting - which it does VERY easily.
The hole is drilled to allow a small flow of water when the bypass hose has been eliminated. This does indeed make for faster/better heater operation, and ensures full flow of cooling water round the back of the engine block and head until the stat begins to open. It's not essential to do this - but...
With ANY engine upgrade on a 52 car you will need to attend to the tyres/wheels/brakes/ suspension/back axle and gearbox before even thinking about the engine. As others have pointed out - a larger capacity A series will be the relatively straight forward choice.
The old SW5 has long been 'found out' - see Adrian Dodd for what are now considered by the Mini lads to be the best cams for the A series. You do realise it's a big job to change the cam on a 1275 engine ?? There's no need for rough idling - also note that there is no point in fitting a cam that pea...
- Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:55 pm
- Forum: Electrical
- Topic: Distributor and Vacuum advance/retard component.
- Replies: 27
- Views: 5217
The 'trap' does nothing useful and was eliminated on later engines - just pipe it direct to the dizzy with (obviously) a non - collapsible tubing
You definitely don't need the vented discs - and fitting a servo is not particularly easy due to the front/rear split at the master cylinder. Hope you are good at making up new pipes - and don't be tempted to use 'copper' pipes- they should be kunifer - or the original bundy tubing. Frankly - I'm su...
The check is to see if the oil rings are present and correct - and the piston lands not broken or seized up with 'gunk'. Yes - you would need +40 rings - but check if the pistons are ok first. The check for valve/guide clearance is simply to wobble them in the guide - there should only be the very s...
Thinner oil will make it worse - use engine oil. The AAA is for a modified engine - not suitable for a bog standard unit. Is the float bowl vertical ? Check if the float bowl is overflowing - when you switch on, does the pump give a couple of clicks then stop - or does it keep on clicking?
- Sat Sep 24, 2016 10:06 pm
- Forum: Mechanical
- Topic: is there an alternative carb for a mm 918 side valve
- Replies: 4
- Views: 1393
Just stick with the H1. why would you want anything else ? It won't increase vthe power - the limitations are elsewhere in the engine ....