Morris Minor Owners Club

inner nearside rear wing removed - although the central part was OK it had completely disintegrated round the wheel arch and front and rear corners so I decided that it was easier to replace the whole inner wing than multiple repairs. I've cut out the lower rear suspension mount so that I can replac...

I've used motorcycle fork oil in my Midget dampers on the basis that it is designed for dampers and has antifoamong additives, although not probably really necessary in car dampers. I used SAE20 ( as recommended in the workshop manual) but having read this thread I realise it is too thin as the fron...

Evans claim to be the makers of this - their website faqs include a lot of classic car examples so looks like they have no issues providing a warranty for its use in older cars https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/forum/

Made progress this morning whilst listening to the cricket. Drilled out the spot welds so that I can remove the inner wing started by spotting them so as to leave flange intact, but changed my mind half way through to drill through and I will plug weld from the rear. 20200726_111336_resize_49.jpg 20...

Bit more progress made. The bottom of both vertical panels below the rear seat had rotted, so I made repair panels and welded in. Not my best welding, but adequate, the issue was access, with the car on a spit I could rotate it be 90° so that the panel was vertical, but the cross brace welded betwee...

Does anyone have one of these, and if so would they be willing to post the heights of the three steps on the setting gauge, A, B and C? Having searched the web i can only find the height of step B as 0.820", which is for an MGA apparently. I know that there are threads explaining how to set the pini...

Try this thread I started https://www.mmoc.org.uk/Messageboard/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=68421#p624443 Are your bump stops still in place? My strategy was to make a jig with a straight angle between spring mounts and weld a leg to the bump stop to locate the angle vertically ( see restoration thread for V...

Assume it was 60° thread form?

So I've been developing the theme of adding central locking via the standard door locks, and have come up with the solution below. 20200620_212633_compress80.jpg What I've done is make a pin that replaces the original locking pin which is driven by the lock barrel, and drive it by a door motor. 2020...

i've got one in exactly the same place - i suspect it was to do with the length of available steel being shorter than the required length for the roof?

There are a lot of relatively cheap similar trackers on the market such as https://uk.banggood.com/Enusic-9V-75V-Micro-GPS-Tracker-Waterproof-Locator-Motorcycle-Car-Electric-Bike-Scooter-Power-Standby-Burglar-Alarm-p-1666364.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN The reviews appear good, and i've bought...

Thanks John. Yes I also considered locking the bar as an approach- very interesting thanks. I've started fabricating the door lock modifications so will finish it and see how it works. Which alarm did you use to control the locks? I'm considering one of the various alarms from Banggood. I've had ele...

So I want to add central locking to my 2 door Minor ( when I've finished welding it 8) keeping the original door locks and without adding additional dead bolts etc. Looking at the door lock there is already a hole for a locking pin which is an extension of the hole provided for the door key lock. So...

Next up was a repair to the off side wheel arch. This had been badly repaired on the past so I cut back to clean metal and made a repair section using a home made tucking fork. I joddled the panel which i prefer as it makes fitting easier and welding easier. So I have a nice continuous weld in the w...

So I’ve completed welding the cross member as described in the last post and it all appears to have worked ok. I’ve also added patches to the floor where it passes over the cross member.

Apparently paraffin contains a small amount of water so needs drying well after. When cleaning individual items I use Comma hyperclean and then wash it off with hot water. If the water is hot enough it will dry almost instantly, a run over with compressed air then leave it in the warm airing cupboar...

So, after posting the above I thought a bit more about it and if the sill box wasn't moving something else must be, so I attached a DTI to the tube which forms the spindle of the roll over jig I've got Vanessa on and clamped both crossmember end tight to the underside of the sill boxes. When I did t...

So I’ve removed the old cross member, leaving the tongues on the chassis legs as discussed on another thread. I’ve bolted the new crossmember in place and clamped the cross member to the torsion bar mounting using the stepped washers and a bolt. So the central part of the crossmember is tight to the...

These have raised £15k, so a not inconsiderable sum. A good effort.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/DragonflyRa ... 1901963694

So having followed Phil’s excellent advice I cut out the cross member either side and in between the chassis legs, split the remaining sections of the cross member behind the chassis legs, leaving the section welded to the chassis leg. 50FE1CCD-5B5E-4124-B5B0-5F7FB8531ADC.jpeg I'll leave this as the...