Morris Minor Owners Club

Tie bars tight? New bushes?

Plastic bottle on the bulkhead not inner wing where you would have two screw holes to go rusty and all the extra tube to pump screenwasher though.

[quote="IslipMinor.] Probably easiest to run a separate earth for each directly to the body?[/quote]
The wipers and heater are earth switched so any wiring must be connected to the switch then earthed

Fit an ammeter, if the light stays on and the gauge reads max discharge disconnect the battery quickly

I go through my in box each morning and delete anything I have any doubts about. Sometimes these are from people I know but if they do not have a proper intrduction then they get binned. Now I am getting those accident claim phone calls on a TPS line. The caller gets an earful of abuse before I hang...

When did you last see a Ford Anglebox or Cortina, or even a classic Mini? They were once far more common than Morris Minors but not any more.

The heater and wipers share some wiring and are switched earth. The Workshop Manual is not very clear as it shows the heater and wipers as two separate unconnected units

At the risk of severe frostbite to the fingers try opening the quarterlights

Start fire by rubbing two Boy Scouts together

myoldjalopy wrote:Or suggestions of how to deal with the damn stuff without it getting all over your hands, clothes, car, garage floor etc!
Oil too - just changing the oil filter can be a messy business An oil and greasing session tends to use up lots of my rags!

That is the joy of classic car motoring

My father had an Austin 8 two door saloon, KNW 145. I have a couple of photos somewhere. It only had one windscreen wiper

I am beginning to feel left out
The bearings on the Series MM are integral with the brake drum. I use sealed bearings as it is much less messy when removing the drums to work on the brakes.
Back to sleep

It holds the horn push?

The guide on my Series MM seems to have disappeared. Has anyone seen it lying around?

The instructions were posted here recently[frame][/frame]

How about supporting the chassis on axle stands, removing the wheel, pumping up the lower suspension arm with a trolley jack then releasing the trolley jack. Do that a few times and it should pump the old oil out

The original question was "Is it necessary to remove the wheel to remove the grease cap?"
By the time you have read through this lot you could have removed the wheel and cap and done the job

There is very little choice of wiper blades, just the blade with a ring in the back which fits through the arm and is secured by a rubber peg. There are two arms that I know of, the all stainless steel version which I found has a rather weak spring and the other type which has a black plastic cover ...

I suspect that you have a faulty new switch. Do the brake lights go out when you disconnect one of the wires? Plug hole with old switch whilst testing Remove switch and connect wires to terminals, brake lights should not operate. Connect wires together, brake lights should operate Check connections ...

I don't wish to start off the engine braking saga again but when I am descending a steep hill with 7 in brakes and a trailer on the back I most certainly use my engine for braking. What about the rule that you should descend a hill in the same gear as you climb it?