Morris Minor Owners Club

Remove the petrol filler cap before you go for a drive. If the problem goes away then it may be the filler cap.

If the gearbox is almost dry, the gearbox rear seal may be worn, allowing the oil to leak out.
Also the third and fourth gear selector fork may be getting worn.

I would start by taking the top off the float chamber, disconnecting the pipe that goes to the fuel pump and making sure that if you blow down the tube on the top of the float chamber you can stop the flow of air by pushing up the little lever inside the top of the float chamber.

My car has those too. I put them there to compensate for wear in the brake drums.
They are aluminium and made from a bit of traveller bodyshell. It is easier to cut than steel.

Is the existing breather pipe blocked?

I would use a hammer and a cold chisel too.
Any damage to the nut can be smoothed down with a file.

Burlen used to sell parts for SU carbs.

One of the commonest causes of a gearbox jumping out of 3rd or 4th gear is a worn selector fork.
To the best of my knowledge, new ones are not available.

I have a pit in my garage and I could usually do it in an afternoon.

I used to travel regularly between Huntingdon and Reading in a morris traveller via the M25 and the M4 and its wasn't unusual to have to stop on the hard shoulder. Here are some reasons: Flat tyre Faulty ignition coil (a new one). Faulty voltage regulator Loose wire. Weak bladder (!) If I had been o...

I was with FJ for years but when the premium reached over £130 I rang RH and their quote was £50 less. I have stayed with RH and the premium hasn't gone up too much. Also there is no mileage limitation with RH.

Regarding the bolts and nuts holding the master cylinder in place. I ground down the nuts to half their original thickness and ground down the bolts by a similar amount then fitted the bolts the opposite way round. They do not touch the torsion bar and I have done many tens of thousands of miles wit...

I think that in order to replace an engine mount you not only have to lift the engine up but also push it to one side. I am not sure if this is possible without disconnecting the radiator.

Are the brake drums worn?

Coil breaking down when it gets hot?

I would start by checking oil level in gearbox and oil level in back axle if you have not already done so.

This is the tappet adjusting tool.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gunson-G4094-C ... B002WT4S1Y

I would look at the clutch linkage.
I think you are saying that the clutch doesn't bite until the pedal is near to the top. If you carefully try to engage the gear while slowly pushing the pedal down is there a point before the pedal reaches the floor where the gear will engage?

Search for: Smiths round heater r250

has a case around it is what I meant to put.