Morris Minor Owners Club

I have just checked a n.o.s. genuine Lockheed rear cylinder and the pipe connection into that is definitely 3/8" B.S.F..

"From your pic isn't the relief as explained by olonas in the wrong orientation ?" That was my thinking too, hence my post of the 16th at 10.13am. However. "He re-assembled the uj’s with the nipples in the same place as the originals had them." I suspect not? "recess" i...

Same idea as in that video. I seem to remember posting a comparison picture highlighting the difference between original and new springs.

The difference can be seen where that blob of white paint is.

It already is.
In your picture, look at the yoke, above the nipple. It's different compared to where the nipple is. That should be where the grease nipple is. At least that's where I locate it.

Previously I used a pair of long nosed pliers. I now have a homemade "special" tool comprising of a 1/4" drive 5.5mm deep socket and a 1/4" nut driver. A slot has to be cut into the socket to accomodate the spring. Picture?

uj1.jpg uj2.jpg I have only changed U.J.s on later propshafts. There is a "relief" to accomodate the grease nipple on those. It's therefore essential, when assembling, that the U.J. is positioned with the nipple to line up with that "relief". Although, not because of the locatio...

Feel free to leave the oil in there forever Phil.
I will continue to change it. I only quoted Morris Motors own recommendation. What did they know?
It may well be millions of years old but I suspect adding some crude, without refining, to the gearbox might not end well.

Morris Motors, in their lubrication chart, recommend a gearbox oil change every 6000 miles. That was using Castrol XL,straight S.A.E. 30, though.

"They are " seeking expert knowledge".."
Hence my scepticism. I think we all know what so- called "experts" are like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ec0fYGiOwns

Would you buy a used car off him?

I wonder what they are up to? Is there an ulterior motive behind this?

Yes, I remember that discussion. Having checked the workshop manual, sections I and L, there's no mention of anything about changes dimensions/sizes. It does specify "All models" for both sections. The only modification, written therein, is with reference to the damper internals and a thic...

I would expect you have compared new to old, but for reference, I have measured the tapered section on a droplink that was removed from my car - metric measurements. Length of taper 12mm, large diameter 12.2mm, small diameter 10.6mm. Their recent replacements are the same size. Unless Armstrong chan...

Remove the Ethanol, I do. Not really much of a hassle for the amount of fuel a lawnmower's, or other Petrol powered garden tool, uses.

Courtesy of the good Doctor. Should suffice until the return of the reconditioned distributor.
Yes, that's an aftermarket vacuum advance unit, but it does still function.
I realise it's not intended to fall off, but the rotor arm is a very tight fit on the shaft.

Sent a 25D4 off to Martin this morning for reconditioning. No, not cheap, but I suspect the old "you get what you pay for" is true. It is a "spare" so no "downtime" involved. "The distributor in the photo above is Martin's work." That's one fancy looking conde...

Whatever it was, seems to be fine this morning.

Thanks both. I've contacted The D.D. with a view to buying his parts.
Also probably a distributor recondition.
There is no way I will use that new rotor arm.

Has this happened yet? I had to log in this morning without having previously logged out and the board is very slow in operation.
If it has - they've fixed it.

I think we are aware that the quality of aftermarket parts has deteriorated, but having just purchased a Lucas 25D rotor arm, and compared it to that it's replacing, I'm reluctant to use it. Really lighter in weight and poor finish. I'm sure it's "genuine" Lucas, it came in a Lucas box and...