Morris Minor Owners Club

This is a new old stock carb I got of ebay some time ago, has a ADE needle which I'm going too attempt to wittle down to the profile of an AAA / AAU, could the carb be part of twin carb set?.[frame][/frame]

Manifold is a water heated alloy copy of something, only I wasn't going to connect up the manifold, carb has a tiny pipe for distributor as well as this other pipe, I'll see if I can get a picture up.

Soon I will be connecting up the SU HS4 on my car, I think the top one on the float bowl is fuel in?, and the other a vent?, also do I block off the other one which is at forty five degrees or connect to something.

With the aid of an inspection lamp I can see that what I thought was solid steel turns out too be the old nylon cup pressed down below the edge of the rod, no wonder it selected Okay when assembled and didn't want any more springs and cups! ..

Doesn't push on, not deep or wide enough for that, fits on the end but the o ring is exposed.

No, there is just a steel cup connected to what I would call a selector rod.

Got the correct nylon part now assembled in the right order but seems impossible to fit, :x I can't get the gear lever down far enough so the top steel plate is flush with the housing. It all still won't fit together with just the nylon button and no spring, am I trying to fit these parts to a late ...

Thanks for the answer, part numbers and picture, I've not seen that one before .

I can't see how to assemble the gearlever in my ribbed gearbox as the spring and nylon bush were missing when I bought it, by looking at some of the diagrams it looks like it's assembled like this, but there is nothing holding it all together?., it did select the gears when assembled without the spr...

Well yes, in the past I might have done the same thing my self thinking....it will just be a few seconds before I get oil pressure up like when you give the car an oil and filter change....., I do tend to make assumptions about things which in this case would have been time and money wasted, thanks.

Thank God for that, oil light went out after the second try of cranking, pressure gauge now showing 60psi on the gauge after cranking for around ten seconds. did the trick by pouring oil down the oil filter pipe hole in the block and turning the engine over backwards, then filling the filter bowl as...

Another clue no I just assembled it all empty, just taken the oil filter pipe off now so i'll put some down the hole and fill the tube / canister with oil and try that.

Thanks for that, I didn't know there was a seat for the valve, just assumed the seat was machined in the block.

Standard slot drive pump from one of the parts people, yes did clean remove and clean valve, I'll check and see if it's stuck before I go on, thanks all.

It's the correct wire to the oil switch as I marked it when removing the engine, didn't touch the speedo end.

Yes I do have another switch I could try, good idea to try as you said to get oil to the pump via the the pipework and turning the engine backwards, thanks.

No the oil light doesn't go out, horrible feeling I just didn't prime the pump right on assembly.

Rebuild my 1098 engine now fitted with gearbox, next step... see if I have got oil pressure, filled it with 20/50 no plugs in yet and connected up the oil gauge. Cranked the engine over six times for around four seconds a time, nothing.....when I fitted the new oil pump I primed it with is much oil ...

The car was a wreck when I bought it and in bits so I don't know what the clutch was like, If I knew how thick the linings are on a new AP plate and if there still for sale new, thanks all.

Would this be wise or not, i've got two good clutch covers and a new release bearing, I also have a couple of used clutch plates one of which is an AP with 0.042in or 1.05mm left on the lining, don't know what the thickness would be new. I will only be doing around two to three thousand miles a year...