Morris Minor Owners Club

I drove the Morris over the Rimutaka hills today. I noticed an improved throttle response, but only very small. First impression is absolutely positive. Although I use low octane petrol in this high compression engine it is not pinking (which surprises me a little bit), so I could advance the igniti...

It uses the dizzy but not the centrifugal advance. You can use different pick-ups (reluctor, opto, points) I used a reluctor from a car at the wreckers yard. It is a mappable ignition. If it works sattisfactory I will also include the optional knock sensor PCB. I allready fixed a sensor on to the en...

The electronic ignition uses a sensor. I connect the vacuum hose on to this sensor which translates the pressure (vacuum) in to a voltage. Works really well. (Although I need to back it down for the moment until I find out what is happening). Tomorrow I will drive the car over the Rimutaka's. This h...

I installed an electronic ignition in my Morris. The ignition takes care of mechanical and vacuum advance. When I program the mechanical advance in the software the engine runs fine. But when I start programming the vacuum advance there is too much advance and the engine starts stalling. When I chec...

They are caged roller bearings. You omit the outward springclips but obviously leave the inward positioned springclips in place. Does this make sense? Something maybe lost in translation.

I never managed to get them out without damaging the springclips. It is a good idea to replace the roller bearings anyway. The new needle bearings don't use the springclips. My methode removing the old ones is simular to that of Moggytech. I also use a punch to mark the springclip and so get better ...

The knock sensing on this electronic ignition is rudimentary. It senses frequencies between 4.8 kHz and 6.4 kHz and only for the "lower" revs up to 4000RPM. You set the advance curve so engine knock only occurs under unusual circumstances. The project is not my own design. It is a Silicon ...

I know. I am just combining two hobbies in one.

Hi all, I am building an electronic ignition for my 1098 saloon. I need a knock sensor to complete it. I checked the local car wreckers but wasn't really sure what a knock sensor lookes like. I assume it is positioned on the cylinderhead. But so are other sensors. Most cars at the wreckers are Japan...

thanks

What is wincu and where can I find more information on this software?
Sounds like a software tool I have a use for.

Rein

Our postings crossed.
In order to verify I will put them back. I can also put them on my van.

This is not the case. In order to locate this vibrating problem I have taken off the front wheels and drum many times.

When I put on the brakes at higher speed (starting at 50 MPH) my steering wheel used to vibrate. I rotated the wheels (the front tyres are of a different brand and profile now) and the vibrating disappeard almost completely. I didn't realise that tyre profile can cause steering wheel vibrating under...

Thanks Jonathon. I wasn't sure. I will include them.

I may have found a Marina donor car for the disc brakes. Should I remove the swivel pins for the stub axle?

For the last time on this subject.
I got the 13/16 M/C back from the brake shop. The pressure retaining valve was working this time. Now bleeding the brakes was straight forward.

Thanks. If possible I will do that

I sourced another 1098 ribcased gearbox. I will open it this weekend to check it out. If I am lucky I can use the laygear and 2nd gear.

If I source another gearbox, this gearbox will need inspection and overhaul too to make it reliable. And indeed the laygear and layshaft are often in need of replacement anyway. New parts are available in NZ, but very expensive compaired to suppliers in England. 2nd gear in England is 45 pounds, lay...