Morris Minor Owners Club

With a cold start- it's nothing to do with fuel vapourisation. (And that has nothing to do with the carb either). Steady ticking means either short of fuel -or carb float needle sticking open - or air leak on the inlet side. I think you should try to concentrate on one problem at a time instead of m...

Big ends- drop the sump.

But are said to be ok with a sharp stab at the pedal.......

Sounds like your local garage is a place to avoid then..... Cutting the shoes ?? And brake pipe squirting ??

Make sure the ignition is not too advanced - and 'kicking back' against the starter.

Certainly not 'points in the horn'...... Removing the fuse was certainly the right thing to do! As above - it will be the earth connection at the steering column.

Not if the charging voltage is correctly controlled...... Don't think I have ever had to top up a battery in the last 40 years!

It works a treat I can assure you - but is the car sitting too low so it is on the bump stops??? Most folks who complain of hard/bumpy ride are actually bouncing along on the stops. There should be a good 2" between the bump stop and the chassis. You can safely cut another one inch off the bump...

Quite a list of problems there - not all connected. If the pump ticks all the time then the carb float valve is sticking open..(or perhaps there is an air leak on the inlet side) Clean the points in the fuel pump. Run a flow test into a bottle to see what it can do. Was the head retorqued (44 ft lbf...

Often the master cylinders bore is rusty/scored at the end . New seals are generally a false economy....

Obviously - the hub seal has leaked - should have drained the final drive. So - new seal and new shoes ....... May as well do both sides. Then drain/refill the final drive with new oil.

TPM is fine then -as above - you need to reset the needle to zero.

Pint in two minutes will be good.

To do the job properly I suspect you will need to remove the O/S timber frame from the chassis.......

The additives are 'snake oil' - some may boost the Octane rating slightly to help prevent pinking - but that's about all. Just set the exhaust valve gaps at 15 thou - and check/reset at 3000 mile intervals and all will be well. Just use standard petrol - no need for the expensive stuff in this low p...

Yes indeed they can - and they firm up the back of the car very nicely and eliminate 'axle tramp'. If you find them just too firm - then the bottom leaf can be removed if required. Even Traveller springs still give a very 'soft' ride. Folks who complain of a firm ride usually have the car pretty muc...

No need for a drain tap anyway - a well fitted plug is much more secure, and just drain when required by pulling the bottom hose off....

Sort out the 'fluctuations'by withdrawing the inner cable and cleaning/lightly greasing it - but not the last 2" at the speedo head. What 'tpm' number is shown on the speedo face??

44 ft lbf for the head nuts - 15 thou for the exhaust valve gaps. Retorque and reset gaps after the first heat cycle.

Well - should mean the rings and pistons are pretty good !