Morris Minor Owners Club

Karl I spoke too soon on the last note, my problem is still not cracked. I have carefully measured the stud heights and thread lengths etc and have decided that washers are necessary. Without them there is a risk of the nuts bottoming on the thread and not onto the head. Through hardened washers are...

Karl I went through problems when fitting the head to my rebuilt engine. Initially I used ordinary washers but these actually dished after running the engine so I abandoned them and just used the nuts. At the time I seem to remember hearing that BMW use hardened washers, but cannot confirm this. Abo...

Mike
We didn't run the car on the road, the engine sounded OK static, then we double checked!
Colin

And don't rely on the marks on the cog, we assembled my MM engine and it ran OK. Then a friend came over with the dial gauge etc for setting the cam timing and we were a tooth out.
Colin

Frank I agree with Mike. My engine was seized when I bought the car. The car had been in "dry storage" for 20 years, one bore had had water in it and was very rusted in, another bore had a floating gudgeon pin which had badly scored the bore. All bores were on +.060" so I had them sle...

Hi again Also: the plate that resides in the sump must fit into little "teeth" or slots at one end. Don't ask how I know but make absolutely sure that it is located into the slots, not just resting onto them. If the location is not correct it makes a dreadful clanging noise that sounds lik...

Hello. One of the tricks is NOT to cut the cork strip that you insert into the groove in the sump. This looks much too long, it isn't. Lay it into the groove with an equal length sticking up at each end. Then carefully position the sump and push up, the cork will actually then be pushed into the gro...

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This is the photo that should have been with the note above, it worked OK this time.
Colin

[img][img][frame][img]http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1399561501_14565[/img][/frame] Hello all I have this strange oil filler pipe on my 1950 MM, but with a USHM3 engine. I've not seen anything like this in photos on the Forum or in books etc. It has a T-piece as shown which looks as if it might ...

Hi,
I suspect this is the piece that Bryan (spares) was advertising very recently. He has found some cast iron versions in the back of a shed!
I bought one 'just in case' because mine was very iffy when I rebuilt the engine but was repaired with an epoxy putty.
Contact Brian
Colin

Cylinder liner sleeves are available from Club Spares (Bryan), as are standard pistons. I had my engine sleeved last summer. You MUST make certain that the engine builder/machinist knows what he is doing with this job!!!! He will also need to get all the head studs out and machine the top of the blo...

Bryan That 's really interesting. The last MOT expired 1992 and in the last few years it did only a few hundred miles each year. One of the gudgeon pins had been loose and had scored the bore badly. Maybe this contributed to the low miles?? From 1965 it was MOT'd in Saxmundham, then after 1980 in Wo...

The blue/green car spent all its life in Suffolk, I bought it from a chap in Felixstow. I have all the Mot certs from 1965 on and it has been off the road for 20 years until last july. The engine was seized, water in a bore and has been fully rebuilt with sleeves back to original sizes.
Colin

[frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1387225945_14565 [/frame] Hi all This picture of my own 1950 MM on the right, the green one. This I purchased 3-4 years ago, had the engine rebuilt, sorted out the rest myself, all recon brakes, cleaned underneath and Dynitrol sprayed, new front tyres etc e...

Hi I made a puller very simply. A bit of 10mm thick steel bar with 3 holes in it. The two outer holes to line up with the bolt holes in the drum plus a hole through the middle. Then buy 3 bolts, two to fit the holes in the drum 3.5inches long with 1 inch thread, drill clearance holes in the bar. One...

My 1950 MM Tourer was much more interesting then Mike's. After being somewhat confused I eventually discovered I have BSF drums on the back and UNF on the front. BUT I had only x6 BSF bolts and x10 UNF !!! Two of the hole threads on a front drum were next to useless so a friend sorted these. He scre...

Hi
The second series of pictures are definitely the series 11 knob and ESM have these in stock, complete with the embossed gear positions and shape similar to the photos.
Colin

The visible plastic window is 780 x 195mm. The ends are rounded and this is the max width. Height is 195mm. There are two rows of sewing which add a further 20mm all round. This is from my hood which is very tatty and soft and floppy off-white canvas, I would guess it is perhaps the original. I can ...

Louise, thanks for the help. Have just had a reply from Hardi about pump spares. Not very helpful, they have been making electronic pumps for 20 years +. They don't supply any spares and suggest I look at the diaphragms - but are not helpful about what to do once I have looked at them! So I have ord...

Hello The rebuild on my 1950 MM engine proceeds well and last week we got it started for the first time. It has had serious work on it, sleeved bores and new virtually everything, pistons, bearings, valves and seats, head studs etc etc. We only ran it for a few seconds because the radiator is not fi...