Morris Minor Owners Club

Mr Cam, Mr Cam! You're confusing everbody! 20w-50 oil doesn't get thicker as it get hotter, as you well know! IT JUST GETS LESS THIN THAN A STRAIGHT 20 GRADE. ( If you doubt it look at your engine oil pressure gauge - any multigade just like a straight oil gives higher pressure when cold.) So in a d...

Nope, no thunderstorm. Mind you I've still got the low resistance coil and a 36 watt bulb in parallel so its not as dark as I'd like. Will also do a close inspection of the innards of the dizzy. Again, thanks for advice, MikeN.

Thanks for your advice folks. Will go and check the aerial first -take the point that I need to start with the best signal. Think also that it wasn't a good idea to have it on the offside. Still loath to go to carbon string leads but it may come to that. But now its dark I'll run it and see if I've ...

No Newage, its not the dynamo. Sorry, I should have included that in my list of eliminations. (And actually have an alternator on now.) The clicks and mush are all in time with the revs so I'm sure (so far anyway) its caused by the ignition system. Perhaps I should look more closely at the distribut...

If your's is stripped Nikki, you could stick Dynamat or Brown bread to the engine side of the firewall too. On up and running cars your idea of an extra wall sandwiching sound absorbant material might be the only useful choice. As I've got the carpet out (just fitted Metro seats) and got to replace ...

No, its not the pump. the noise rises and falls with the revs. Thanks for thought on the aerial braiding though - I'll check that. MikeN.

Greetings Comrades! I seek your advice on the above. I've got (and prefer) copper plug leads and coil to distibutor lead with suppressor caps on the plugs. But there's always an irritating background of clicking in time with the engine. I'm thinking FM, worst for Radio 4. (No noise from the heater, ...

I know this subject is very slow moving but, alas, so much rubbish keeps intruding into Moggyworld. Anyway, I've replaced the quarterlight rubbers. (See under Bodywork of the 12th of March 2006 for comment). The noise reduction was impressive but it was masking a lesser noise from the gap between th...

Following the above advice just done my Traveller. Took about 2 hours for both side inc mugs of tea. (Trav is stainless so no rust to get in the way.) Was advised by Allen Hill of Over the Hill Motors, Ripley near Guildford to use seals supplied by C O H Baines of Tunbridge Wells (tel 01892 524177) ...

Thanks for all your help. Have found a flaring tool up in the garage roof bought long ago and never used when I was hunting for something else! (Does this sort of thing happen to anyone else?) Anyway, your advice has helped me sort out my ideas and pointed me along the right path. Now to get on with...

Thank you for all your advice and encouragement. I'm getting a bit too old/inflexible for this upsidedown under the dash thing, but its all bit tidier now. I see the value of better crimpimg tools - the ratchet variety have been much recommended so I'll get one. (As usual, AFTER the event!) But I'd ...

Aargh! Not a new loom! Its got to be going tomorrow! Tomorrow I collect two metro seats and retractable belts, a sump (to put a temperature gauge in) a spare carb and dist (to play with) and other bits I've forgotten. I've hardly time to bodge the wiring properly! How will I ever fit a new loom? Its...

Ah, thanks, Willie. Possibly a duff earth, eh? I'll give it a go. MikeN.

Yeah, when I said copper I meant the alloy - couldn't thing of the name or the mix. Thanks for the tool advice. (I've painted the brakes Flame Red by the way, so anyone crawling under car will be struck by the difference!) Regards, MikeN. Hang on though, its not a flare on the end , but rather a fol...

Can you give me some clues? My fuel gauge on my 1963 Trav will often read a quarter full when actually full. Whether it will go to the usual threequarters mark when really full (it never reads F when completely full) or just the quarter mark seems to be chance, changing up and down on the same journ...

Just getting my Wolesley 9 inch brakes together and I'm going to replace the rusty steel brake pipes with copper ones. Can you please recommend a good tool (and give me a steer as to where I can get it) that forms the end of the pipe into the right shape? Thanks in advance, MikeN.

Thanks for comments about fusery. Mine leave quite a lot to be desired. Really need a subsidary fuse box for the extras. Is there one? But have you learnt you lesson and done the other outstanding bits as well........ Well the trouble is that REAL bodgers always do lots of things at once. Not TOO ma...

bmcecosse, Go along with your carb comments but your ignition advance proposals bother me as universal advice. Eg my standard 1098 with too much advance gets rough running and pre-ignition long before pinking sets in (even on cheapest fuel). I think that your engines (tuned and all with raised CR?) ...

Thanks Gareth! Of course I had to ask the ball & chain wot desktop meant (for those, SR, afraid to ask its the front page with all the icons on) but eventually I found out that my screen was at 800x600. Pushed along the slider to give the max of 1280x1024 and now all fits. Still not sure why som...

Often the text is too wide for my screen so I have to keep scrolling left and right to read it all. (Please resist bigger monitor jokes.) Especially a pain if I want to know who wrote what. Is it me? Can I do anything about it? I find that using the Printer Version is a lot better and easier, indeed...