Morris Minor Owners Club

So I’ve completed welding the cross member as described in the last post and it all appears to have worked ok. I’ve also added patches to the floor where it passes over the cross member.

Apparently paraffin contains a small amount of water so needs drying well after. When cleaning individual items I use Comma hyperclean and then wash it off with hot water. If the water is hot enough it will dry almost instantly, a run over with compressed air then leave it in the warm airing cupboar...

So, after posting the above I thought a bit more about it and if the sill box wasn't moving something else must be, so I attached a DTI to the tube which forms the spindle of the roll over jig I've got Vanessa on and clamped both crossmember end tight to the underside of the sill boxes. When I did t...

So I’ve removed the old cross member, leaving the tongues on the chassis legs as discussed on another thread. I’ve bolted the new crossmember in place and clamped the cross member to the torsion bar mounting using the stepped washers and a bolt. So the central part of the crossmember is tight to the...

So having followed Phil’s excellent advice I cut out the cross member either side and in between the chassis legs, split the remaining sections of the cross member behind the chassis legs, leaving the section welded to the chassis leg. 50FE1CCD-5B5E-4124-B5B0-5F7FB8531ADC.jpeg I'll leave this as the...

Agreed, I intend leaving the jacking points off as I always jack under chassis members. I am also intending to seal the flanges and gaps on the cross member with seam sealer.

Just had another look and the grinding from the back might be easier than I thought - I’ve cut the flange off and the cross member has delaminated so much I can see daylight, so I will only have one thickness of metal to deal with.

Thanks Phil, good idea, although having pushed an endoscope down the inside of the chassis leg I do wonder how thick the leg walls are at the cross member end. I'll give it a go and see how I get on. Worst case is I have to make right angle patches.

Having finished the sills and A posts on both sides of Vanessa it’s time to replace the heavily patched cross member. My plan was to try and preserve the flanges on the ends of the chassis legs, but having cleaned them up I think by the time I’ve drilled out the spot welds there will be virtually no...

So I’ve welded the drivers side floor repair panel in, and have the opportunity to compare the welding with the nearside which is where I started. Can you guess which is which?😀 4FA45A86-AF40-474F-9FC7-B866DB7A9211.jpeg 8DE44A15-C9EA-4158-B2FF-33E648C8100E.jpeg I now see why many people say that the...

Had the same issue when fitting the HIF44 to my midget, pretty sure I used a 36" Mini choke cable. Try any of the Mini parts suppliers. Thinking about it the midget problem was probably the accelerator cable, but same solution applies - look at Mini spares as the cable ends are usually the same.

I use it as a cutting fluid when milling or turning aluminium, probably more the cooling effect than lubrication but gives a decent finish.

As long as they stay on the roads or in cycle lanes with other motorised vehicles I haven't got an issue with them - afterall you can already buy motorised bicycles which do 15mph. My mother in law had a BSA Winged wheel on her bike back in the 1950s so nothings new

Have a look here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=68421#p624443

Taken a while but I’ve now finished welding the drivers side A pillar in place after lots of screwing in place, hanging the door, adjusting, hanging the door, etc. Made more awkward as the car is close to a wall so hanging the door is knuckle shredding. Result is that the door fits with a uniform ga...

Welcome Brian, where abouts in the country are you?

Thanks. All the evidence is that the white is the only additional layer of paint over the original Peat Brown, as where i have rubbed through the brown, there is only the original red and green basecoat and primer evident, and the underside of the dash and door inners are Peat Brown.

Mine additionally has holes in each of the rear chassis rails, one behind the rear seat cross member, just above and behind the front spring hanger, and the other in the boot, between the shock absorber mount and the bump stop. Since the bump stop appears to be prone to rusting, getting cavity wax i...

My car was painted white badly by the last owner in cellulose over the original peat brown. The paint was applied so badly that it has crazed all across the roof and in places can be scraped off with careful use of a Stanley knife blade scraper, exposing the original paint intact. Any suggestions on...

Phil, why does the throttle need to be held open? Ensure reasonable air flow into the cylinders?