Morris Minor Owners Club

Quick question.

One of the locking plungers in my spare bellhousing has rusted in place. I've soaked it in WD40, and will have a go at removing tonight. If that doesn't work, how do I get it out? Can I risk using heat on an aluminium bellhousing?

Cheers N

I've started to get the gearbox apart to transfer the innards to the spare bellhousing. So far, I've got the clutch release fork off, and the side cover off, but not started dismantling the gears yet. There's quite a bit of play on the input shaft from the engine-is this normal? If not, what needs r...

My clutch return spring definitely attaches to the backplate. Can't take a photo, it's in bit at the moment.

You might be right about the tab inside the chassis leg. I have a 1098, so mine is the latter version, attaching to the engine backplate.
I wonder if Moss have got their diagram wrong, as the diagram I posted above is out of the BMC Workshop Manual, and is in the section for a Series MM.

This diagram from the BMC Workshop Manual shows the part you are referring to as item 45. It fits, far as I can see, between item 46 and item 37.

Ah, I see.
I *think* it's the clutch pedal return for 803 & 948 cc cars, which explains why I haven't got one. Not sure where it fits.

With reference to the very helpful moss diagram posted by Phil the Hill where does the pedal return spring, item 40 attach ? It seems to be missing from my 1960 car. The clutch arm spring, item 77 is in place, but isn't strong enough to pull the pedal up against the floor. Cheers John G The clutch ...

Ok thanks. Haven't changed it since 1990! *Touches wood*

Nearly there, just got to remove the gearbox cross member, but I need to move the car to get at it properly. Got to remove the speedo cable-how do I do that? Is it just the aluminium knurled end cap that I remove, or the plastic insert that screws into the gearbox? When I remove the aluminium cap, t...

Whilst it saves the job of clutch shaft alignment, installation of the combined assembly will involve the extra work of dismantling the front radiator panel, with the inherent danger of the threaded trim fixings breaking off, if the front is not already off, think twice about disturbing it. Thanks,...

Ok thanks. I thought so, looks a pain to go through the passenger compartment! I will take it out through the engine bay, the engine is already out.

On a related note, is it easier to get the engine & gearbox back in as one, or gearbox first, then engine?

Cheers N

ndevans, The reason your top rings have broken probably has something to do with putting new rings in old bores. I've attached a picture to this post that shows you how the wear ridge in the bore is slightly rounded at the top. Meanwhile the top of the top ring is square. The square top edge is sli...

Ok good folks, next installment in the saga. The engine is stripped and ready to go for the rebore, so time to get the gearbox out. I've managed to get the gearbox cover off, for the first time ever, or at least since about 1988. Next question-do I remove the gearbox through the engine bay, or throu...

Thanks once again for the advice, much appreciated! I'm pretty confident in the main and big end bearings-the crankshaft was reground and new big end and main bearing shells were put in 3 years ago, and having got it apart now, all looks good. The camshaft bearings look good too, no excessive scorin...

Ok thanks, noted. I'll get the machine shop to remove and refit the new pistons. A couple more questions! What are the rebore sizes for a Marina 1275? I'm pretty sure the pistons it has in are standard pistons, so what's the next sizes up? If I go for a new camshaft, a 266 as suggested above, is it ...

Ok ta, useful info there.

Do I need to renew the con rods as well, or can I re-use them?

Cheers N

OK ta. Will the same apply to new pistons? Or will they come with matched rings?

The head and block were both squared off when I rebuilt it 2 years ago, so should be square.

cheers N

Ok, managed to shift the stubborn flywheel bolt eventually. Heat had no effect, half an hour of clouting with a lump hammer and cold chisel shifted it in the end! The reason I am doing this is because the head gasket went between 2&3 cyls. On dismantling, I found a couple of small scores in no.3...

Empty pockets True, but enjoyable! A standard cam would completely strangle the engine spec described - something like a 266 would be required, and with a properly flowed head I would think ~90bhp would be likely. Ok, thanks. I may fit a 266 at some point, but for now I'll stick with the standard c...

It goes well with a HIF38, but lacks high rev power. Stacks of torque lower down though, and climbing Haldon Hill on the A38 went from 50mph at best at the summit to easily sustaining 60.