Morris Minor Owners Club

I was always taught to write your name in weld on steel with the welding torch, which gradually gives you a greater 'feel' with the torch. Worked for me

Exactly!

Au contraire! In the interim between sourcing a speedo reading primarily in KM's (being in France) I cannot read the KM 'inner' part of my speedo at night (though I don't need it for general driving) - the French have cracked on with speed checks in recent times - we caught one sat in a tree with a ...

Your 'new oil thrower' is not that at all - it's a replacement lock washer for the pulley bolt/starter dog :D When replacing the lock washer, make sure you knock it back both ways (ie into the pulley and over the starter dog). Assume you know also to centralise the timing cover with the crank pulley...

Probably 2BA I expect. Cross head screws.

For reference, the later black face speedo use a plastic pawl gear as opposed to a brass one.

Gold. TPM 1504/1525 as standard (I can't remember which exactly). Reads to 80MPH.

I think that's actually an early Spridget item for the 948 allowing a temperature sender (and gauge) to be fitted.
Willing to be corrected.

Instead of persevering with your current engine you could attempt to find a second hand unit to refurbish (if needed) to replace, even temporarily. Perhaps even a 1275 if you can find one cheap (as SteveClem says). It's good to have a spare engine in stock to learn on, without causing any upset to t...

As promised, side on pics. Continental 155/70 14's. Nice snug fit, not wallowy as some 155/80's can look. In my opinion they don't show the wheel arch, much less than the 145's on my girlfriend's Minor do. I'd go back to them if I didn't have van rims on the Trav.[frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.p...

I have, I actually preferred them to 155/80's. Continental 155/70's fitted. Had no problems with the inner arch being on show at all, in fact the 145/14's fitted to my girlfriend's Minor are far worse for showing the inner arch. If that sort of thing bothers you, of course. Only picture I have to ha...

Likely loose/dirty battery connexions.

Regardless of why they're fitted like that, fitting them 'correctly' (again in inverted commas!) ensures they can't drop all the way out!
Plus, like Les says, they've gotta be skinny headed bolts for a reason?

They were designed to run on poorer quality fuel (or so I've heard).

Mine are as they 'should' be (in inverted commas) with the bolt heads on the torsion bar side. Reason? On my '58 I once raised it on the 2 post lift and while underneath it one of the bolts dropped on my head, the bolts that hold the master cylinder in that is. As it happens they weren't bolts, they...

Yes they can, with trim removed.
Yours are probably long gone. They're attached via two screws through the quarter panel, aka on the outside of the car by the B pillar. To smooth it out, you'd remove the screws as the stick proud. No mounting screws, no trafficators!

Presumably it must tell you if it's overfilled too? Which can be as damaging as running low (in certain circumstances).
I don't know, modern technology I found out recently that coded batteries are in use, whereby only a dealer (or someone with the relevant equipment) can change the battery!

No need to drain oil. 948 4.55 diffs are easily distinguished by the filler plug in the diff casing. Likewise, later '1098' axles for the 4.22 diff have a filler plug on the back of the casing. You are in danger of having no filler plug, so you will either have to fill via a removed half shaft or th...

Head gasket one between 1 and 2 it seems. The rest doesn't look great either, was this on a cold engine with the throttle closed?

Tappet chest cover, common source of leaks.
Not sealant, looks to be a new neoprene gasket. Many recommend these, but I've had more success at getting the cork seals to work properly personally.