Morris Minor Owners Club

This MED video page is well worth looking at https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/video

You need a pair of spacers, they are about 1/4 thick, I also found that longer studs fitted better. They should all be available from ESM.

Now that you have sealed the heater, do you still get heat blowing out if you set the flap leaver to off? I have a manual tap fitted on the cylinder head and sometimes its a bit of a pain to have to stop mid journey and adjust the water flow.

I normally give mine a couple of pumps with an oil gun every year. I have always thought that if I over fill it, oil will leak out of the gaiter which is only sealed with tie wraps.

I have just been for a look in the shed, I do have a spare drivers door handle but the lock is part of the handle (my cars a 69). I assume they are different on the earlier cars.

Nip to your local auto paint supplier and buy a litre of brush paint. Its the right stuff for the job, will give a better finish and only cost about £15. Its also handy to have for touching up stone chips. I always use cheap brushes and throw them away after.

It may just be me, but are you sure that the bearings are the right way round? It looks like you will pop out the centre when they are fitted.

Do you have a good spark at the plugs? Have you checked the oil in the dashpot?

Possible air leak between carb and cylinder head?

As above, why is it out?
You could rotate the distributer until the rotor arm points to a cap terminal then put number one lead onto that terminal.
Are you sure that number 1 is at TDC and not number 4?

IIRC, the brake shoe adjusters are at one end of the shoes and the cylinder and handbrake leaver are at the other end. You need to completely remove the tension from the handbrake cables then adjust the brake shoes then take some of the slack out of the cable. If there is any tension on the cables y...

Section M of the workshop manual states: The forward ends of the cables are provided with adjusting nuts which are locked by locking washers of the tab type. They should never be disturbed after initial fitting.
Section M.19 then explains what to adjust if the lever is reaching the end of its travel.

This is what is fitted to mine https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermostat-Housing-12H797-Gasket-GTG101-for-MGA-MGB-MGB-GT-MGBGT/222398846137?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D2bb702fc197841468d1791b712cee07d%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%2...

Did you slacken the handbrake cables right off prior to adjusting the rear shoes? If not you may find that the handbrake works fine but the shoes don't have enough travel to operate with the footbrake. IIRC the manual states that the handbrake cables should not be adjusted.

Before starting, cover the top of the master cylinder with cling film. Also, get everything ready and prepared.

You can use one from an MGB

Moss house garage for mot, general repairs, maintenance and Matt Harrison for welding. Both are on the parkhouse industrial estate. Have a look on google.

Just read this https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/25- ... d=msedgdhp it may be a load of rubbish but who knows.

Is it a 940 head? If so, the waterways aren't exactly the same and you will get a slight weep over time. especially if its not used for a few days. In which case, check the water level and keep driving. If I park mine in the garage for a week, it will get a small blob of coolant on the flange next t...

The bearings look like the original RHP, if so, and there's no play, I would add some lithium bearing grease and leave well alone. You wont improve on "no play"