Morris Minor Owners Club

And remember to progressively put the choke back in as it warms up.

When referring to the original spec it's worth remembering thet would have been of 5.20/14 crossplies which are about 3% bigger than the 145/14 most people run now, the differnce between 4.22 and 3.9 is 8% so even the original cars would have been almost half way to a 3.9 diff. If you are worried ab...

At the moment the metal adjacent to the arch area doesen't look too bad, it will be intersting to see what you have once all the paint and filler have been removed, If you don't want to do the welding another option is to find a mobile welder to come to you, once you have cleaned it up and trimmed a...

Theres an interesting article in classic and sportscar, I think it was last month , where they discussed this very issue, apparantly a parlimentry commitee has told the DBLA to be more open a publish all the proceses they use but the DVLA are not even responding to that! The whole process seems to b...

to clarify we had a fleet of around 10 connect vans they did between 100k and 250k miles over 3 years on their originsl engines, all serviced with ford products to the ford service schedule. for the company cars they each do around 10 k miles but I was referring here to how well they drive not the d...

assuming the distributor is ok I can only think it's either the distributor not being clamped tightly enough or if you have a damped pulley can the outer move relative to the hub? if it's neither of those then I'd be taking a closer look at the distributor, you could also check the valve timing but ...

It is down to the oil, if you don't use the correct Ford oil with the correct addative pack the belts get damaged, most of the other oils which claim to be equivalent aren't. I've had around a dozen ecoboost fiestas as company cars and the engine is brilliant, we've had ecoboost connects to over 200...

The only serious ignition problem I have had recently is my V8 range rover cutting out at 70mph on the fast lane of a busy dual carrigeway, Turned out to be a failed 6 month old Distributor Doctor rotor arm...... Not sure where to get reliable parts from now. I do remember reading somewhere about us...

They have a more detailed set of criteria they use to determine if the structure has been modified, It's this the EV conversion industry wants published.

Yes it was all greased etc, the axle was re-built including new seals bearings, gaskets, breathers etc and one side and the pinion have never been an issue the other just keeps leaking though.

And until the DVLA change their policy (again) an historic vehicle converted to electric is likely to have its registration number voided and then be issued with a Q-plate. Only if you make any new holes in the body, looks like the parts there use the original engine mount and Brake mastercyl mount...

only issue is the seal is pressed in the hub and runs on the axle tube which can get worn. I've done one side of ours twice now but it only lasts a few hundred miles, I'm going to have to try a speedi sleeve next time.

The other thing is you don't have use the whole panel, with sills it's often only the bottom inch or 2 that is rusted, and the difficult to get and split seams are at the top, therefore it's much easier to cut just the rusted sections away and seam weld only part of the repair section in.

is it the boxing plate to the inner sill you are looking at and the curve if you look from above? If so the boxing plate takes the curve easily enough when you clamp it on.

If you are running a std 1275 and don't intend to do massive mileage an std minor gearbox will work fine and relative to fitting something else cost next to nothing, they are easy and cheap to rebuild and parts are readily available. I find you very soon get used to having to stop to engage 1st (or ...

My son bought it home for a wash yesterday and we had a bit of alook over it, with the breather cleaned out the engine looks a lot dryer and no drips on the drive ao that seems a sucsess. there a couple of bits of bodywork which may need looking at, a blister on the back edge of the roof, looks like...

One of the engines I bought looked perfect with the head off but it had got water in the crankcase which was a rusty mess,. It did though all come appart with the pistons all going up ok, A hone, new rings and new crank bearings (had started to discolour) would have made a decent runner.

As said the blisters should never happen on a profesional paint job, usually moisture in the primer or trapped solvents, with a proper oven this should not happen. The cracks look to be filler that moisure has got into, could be an old repair or a bodged repair over rust. Unfortunately the only opti...

Is that when you fully press the pedal and disengage the drive or just a light pressure on the pedal.

Does the frequency change as you go round corners? wondering if it could be the differential.