Morris Minor Owners Club

As your likely to be bleeding the brakes, it may be worth checking the condition of the rear flexible hose, they have been known to perish inside which causes a blockage and has been reported to act as a one way valve, as pointed out above.

moggiegeek wrote: ↑Sat Jan 22, 2022 5:52 pm Arrow should point to master cylinder?

Mine is the opposite, the arrow denotes the direction of flow, so towards the rear axle.

I must admit that mine is still on the shelf and I will fit it the next time I do anything that requires the brakes to be bled. You can fit it anywhere on the pipe running to the back brakes, obviously forward of the rear axle. Make sure that you fit it the right way round.

It may be a daft suggestion but you have fitted the callipers the correct way round with the bleed nipple at the top?

Is the rubber washer you speak of the same seal which is removed when converting to disc brakes? Yes, it looks like a top hat. You need to remove it when fitting disks or the retained pressure will keep the front brakes applied. Fitting a servo reduces the effort required to press the pedal, so if ...

Before you press the pedal there is no pressure in the brake system and the pistons will be as far in the cylinders as they can. Once you press the brake pedal, the pistons move out and push the shoes out. Inside the master cylinder is a rubber washer which retains some pressure and keeps the piston...

It runs on ethanol. Have a look at https://magazine.astonmartin.com/people ... iendly-db6

I have them fitted but many don't. Have a search for bee hive springs

Did you have a look at the rocker shaft?

Try Minimine, Stoke-on-Trent. Phone: 01782 595999

Heat up until the colour runs then plunge into vinegar, the acid will prevent oxidation.

Have you used a clutch aligning tool? Is the spigot bearing the correct size for the shaft?

The problem that you have is that most stainless exhausts are made of 304 stainless which is easily magnetised. It is usual to tig weld a stainless exhaust, I use a grade 309 filler rod, the main problem is cleaning prior to welding.

Sometimes the throttle return spring can be too strong leading to erratic opening of the throttle. If I was going to replace my throttle cable this is the type I would buy:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191850948805?fits=Car+Make%3AMorris%7CModel%3AMinor&epid=9015924526&hash=item2cab3528c5:g:...

Club stores were recently advertising nos pistons and rings. It may have been in Minor Matters?

I assume that you have read this https://www.dorsetmmoc.co.uk/wordpress/ ... ebuild.pdf

Dunno how that could be. Do tell us how you could tell, depending on electrical load, battery state of charge and battery condition. At night or in the day? Windscreen wipers operating or not? Heater on? It was a standard 105e, the only extra was a smiths ammeter off a Foden lorry. The only thing t...

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Tue Jul 06, 2021 11:02 am

Up to that point a simple ammeter could be used to measure engine speed.

That just reminded me, in 1975, when the speedo cable broke on my Anglia I knew that I was going at 60 mph because my ammeter was reading 15 amps Happy days.

Was the water definitely moving as the steel impellors on water pumps can corrode off. Also check the condition of the radiator cap, if the seal goes the coolant will boil as it will be at a lower pressure.

Has the head got a bypass or did it have holes in the thermostat?

The small screw that holds the earthing cable from the points onto the distributor body?