Morris Minor Owners Club

You can work out the marks if you know the pulley diameter I guess. My strobe is adjustable though, so you can alter the degree setting and then just use the TDC mark to read off. It's an essential bit of kit for me, as in addition to the 3 Minors, I've got an aircooled VW (sorry..) and they melt pi...

The vacuum advance won't actually make much difference at all at idle- the take-off is blanked by the throttle plate... However, it would make a big difference at low revs at light to mid throttle, but none whatsoever at full throttle. Still don't reckon it's the problem though- Coopers, Marinas and...

No probs- sounds like it is running well now!

If the vac advance is working, that's helpful for economy,as it gives much more advance at light throttle openings than would otherwise be possible, and helps pickup from low revs too. Just be aware, if you're buying a new distributor, that the ones sold as Lucas are actually 'Lucas-TVS' and are Ind...

Shame you can't borrow a dizzy... Didn't realise you had an 'electronic dizzy' as such- I'd assumed it was a standard one with an electronic conversion hall sensor thingy (like an Aldon Ignitor) in it- hence suggestion of changing back to points etc to test it. Good luck with the rotor arm!

Hi, Just to add to Louise's point about early SII instruments being the same as in the MM, it's almost true, but not quite. There is one crucial difference that I can think of between the speedos. The MM speedo is 1600 tpm, and the Series II is 1000. Needless to say, if you fit one from an MM, you'r...

I'm inclined to agree that it's ignition related- not fuel. The SU rarely gives any bother like you describe (not like Webers and other fixed jet carbs). I don't reckon a faulty vacuum advance is the issue either- it would be most noticeable when trying to accelerate using light throttle openings at...

This subject is bound to generate conflicting views, but I would say that 35 mph is way too slow for running in a later car with higher gearing (though for an earlier 803, with much lower final drive it is sensible). 45 mph in top will be fine if it's a 948 or a 1098 car, just don't labour the engin...

Yay! Three of us have good eyesight and agree!!!

I can't believe how much interest this has generated over nothing :o - it's quite obviously a Series II with a standard bodyshell (as they were never fitted with one-piece windscreens), which has had a few later 1098 bits fitted to it, as many have. Why on earth would it be anything else?! A few tri...

I don't think anyone has suggested that there won't be an AGM- just that it won't be at Cornbury Park!

3/4" free play is for a 948- IIRC it's almost double that for the 1098 cars (I think 1 1/4"). Hopefully someone will pop up with the correct figure for the 1098s. Don't know which you have, but like Chesney said, it could make a differnce, particularly if the adjustment is such that the cl...

Jowett, it's all well and good suggesting more care and attention, but the facts are that: a) The state of the roads has deteriorated in general over recent years due to a lack of investment, and b) you can't always spot a pothole, for example after rain, when they are filled with water. It would be...

Hi Brucek,
Good point about the seats!
Liam.

1964 is NOT when trafficators were discontinued- as others have said it was earlier. Basically, the man you refer to was wrong. I think it's feasible that your car is as it should be in not having them- if it didn't originally, it would have had the early indicators with the flashing brake lights at...

Unfortunately not just gutless, but hopelessly weak bottom end too, not to mention the awful low gearing in the Series IIs... Still, it was a necessary starting point for evolution into the later A-Series engines, and if you don't like driving very far, it's fine!! Even so, it's good that there are ...

I've put it down to (a very expensive) experience! MG Metro cam is nice though, even in a 1030, so all OK in the end.

The problem seems to be isolated to me! Worth mentioning though, that 2 cams from the supplier caused damage, but when replaced with a NOS MG Metro cam (genuine BL) I had no more problems at all.

My new cam destroyed my totally engine- badly manufactured helical cam drive gear destroyed the dizzy drive gear, and the resulting metal filings ran the new bearings (mains and big ends). So you're quite right to ask! Mine wasn't a standard cam. If you want to know where it was from, I'll gladly PM...

I think you'll find that you'd be better off with a slightly larger bore for that engine spec- perhaps 1 3/4"/. Maniflow do one, though it will be pricier than the BM one. 1 1/2" is recommended for modded 948s and 1098s.