Morris Minor Owners Club

Since the refurb, I've done a good bit of pottering around in Eugene. However, after a rough total of 50 miles since his new head gasket etc, I've removed the oil cap to find some milkshake. I'm hoping, looking at the below, you're going to say "oh yes that's totally fine" and not "oh...

I just bought a NOS clutch kit for my traveller..Been looking for a while as the modern (non asbestos) ones are not very good quality Clutch Kit.JPG I suspect it is 1960s stock looking at the packaging.. Borg and beck then very good quality... You lot can leave the old stock stuff for me! Thanks! T...

Hi guys, Now Eugene is running on his news carbs (and very well, may I say!) I am looking to upgrade to electronic ignition. One thing I noticed is that my new carbs don't have a vacuum port for the dizzy advance, so I presume never had the advance on the car they came off. Normally, I'd be up in ar...

I use these old filters exclusively when in good condition. I wouldn't pay £15 or more for one though! Maybe being sold as a collector's item?! Being sold for whatever they can get for it more like..... Page description reads: Great for display and filter can be used on next service as filter looks...

I agree, perishable products are not worth getting as 'NOS'. It's hard to get a definitive answer, since manufacturers don't seem to publish such data, but when you consider what an old cardboard box or newspaper would be like after 20 years in the garage or loft, would you expect the oil filter pa...

Hi guys, Just a word of caution, as I'm seeing these filters for sale on Facebook and eBay a lot. All filters, be it air, oil or fuel, have a shelf life. Most filters are made out of cellulose (paper) media and perish over time. After 5 years, the media is compromised. For this reason, oil and fuel ...

philthehill wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:30 am If when you lift the carb piston the rpm rises and the engine does not stall the mixture is about right. Road testing will confirm either way if the mixture is correct or not.
I would use and enjoy.

I aim to, now it's all on and plumbed it - The weather seems to be calling for it too

The needles are stamped with a letter and/or number for identification on the part that fits into the damper. Here are three needles suitable for your set up. Weak needle............................MOW. Standard..................................GG. Rich.........................................EB. T...

Well the good news is I was able to fashion a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold and mount everything up. Set the correct float valve clearance and checked floats, centred the needles and I THINK have successfully balanced them, albeit with tubing to my ear. Definitely running rich, even at max...

The 12G295 head is the best small block head available. Even in standard form will give a good increase in performance. If fitting the 12G295 head to a small bore block it is best to give the head a 0.060" skim to get the combustion chamber to the right size. Because of their performance benef...

The 12G295 head is the best small block head available. Even in standard form will give a good increase in performance. If fitting the 12G295 head to a small bore block it is best to give the head a 0.060" skim to get the combustion chamber to the right size. Because of their performance benef...

If you search back through my posts I fitted a pair to my sidevalve. Constructed inlet manifolds etc and those overflow pipes were long enough to get to top of sump level. All together it was a lot of work and as Phil says, improvement was minimal. I did measure (it was measureable!) the times take...

See the link below for an exploded view of the H1 carb set up. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/mg/midget/fuel-system-induction-controls/carburettors-manifolds/carburettors-twin-1-1-8-h1-su-s-sprite-i-iii-midget-i-ii-1958-66.html You will need item No: 25 to join the chokes together. You...

Hi guys, Needed a single H1 Carb, only thing available at semi decent price was a pair of them for a frogeye - Some may have seen them on eBay! I want to have a crack at using them together, for no practical reason other that a bit of fun before becoming sane again. Below are a couple of pictures th...

No real issues so far. Looks like you are doing a good job. Personally, I would have used a scotchbrite disc or cup brush with an angle grinder for the head face - drills are OK but they are not designed for radial loading. It’s also why I prefer to clean up valves using a collet chuck in my lathe....

As it's an iron head I would go at it with scrapers and wire brushes in a drill, you can even use abrasive discs or drums in a dremmel etc. If you go carefull. (Wear a dust mask though) For the valves I spin them up in a drill and use an fairly fine old file to clean them (not the seats !). In the ...

Spring compressor arrived, so I've taken the liberty of removing the valves. Now my untrained eye has observed the following: - Lots of carbon - They're still very much circular, I don't see any burned/damaged valves - There is minimal play when in the guides - Some orange "rusty water" wa...

The head is off! That was a battle, especially the final stud. Naturally, I'd gotten water into every flaming crevice of the block though, so I'll have that to deal with. But the head is off and I'm ready to start learning how to decoke, lap valves (of which I have knowledge of from my mopeds, just ...

Hmmm ! That piston has been sitting around for some time. The operation of the SU piston is to slide up and down the chamber. With the cleaned / new piston in the chamber with spring , invert it , so that the piston falls to the top. Placing a finger over the hole ( where the damper is screwed in )...

So I bought a H1 body, started swapping the pieces and then of course came across the obstacles I never stopped to think of. The piston won't fit, nor will the throttle butterfly.
Out of pure luck, a piston came up on eBay for dirt cheap!

So what would be the best way for me to clean this bad boy?