Morris Minor Owners Club

I would imagine the discs/washers on the fulcrum pin can be extracted using Mole grips or similar, then the pin can be pushed/pulled out. You could also try replacing one of the nuts on the thread and gently hitting it with a hammer...

They were also fitted to the likes of Citroen C1, C3, etc.

How do you like your eggs - poached, or boiled?

Indeed, or Spridget 13" wheels. These also reduce unsprung weight, so should provide some improvement in the handling.

Indeed, dropping the front suspension by 1.5" is just a matter of turning the torsion bar throuhg one spline. You can buy alloy lowering blocks for the rear for around £30-40. Wide steelies are available from ESM: http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=794_795&products_i...

Looks great! I notice you have the obligatory tartan travel rug; I had one just like it, but somehow managed to spill dirty engine oil on it when carrying something!

I'm intrigued by your top rail (just under the roof, where the back doors close against), as it looks quite unlike mine.

^+1. That would be my preferred way of doing it. Alternatively, either try and bump-push it out, or tow it out - I doubt the handbrake is that strong...

Sure. It's just that, as standard, the 1275cc engine was supplied with at least a 1.5" SU HS4 carb, on for example, the 1970s Minis, Allegros, Marinas, etc., sometimes with twin 1.25" SUs such as on Spridgets and Wolseley 1300, and latterly with the HIF44 on 1990s 1275cc engined cars such ...

I would suggest that if you've got a decent spark at the king lead, and have tried two different sets of rotor arms and HT leads, then maybe the spark plugs themselves may be at fault, even if they are a newish set - try a different set... I suppose another possibility is that the cylinder head isn'...

Check the engine-to-body earth strap is securely fitted and in good condition.

Good to hear that. How do you find the performance of the 1275cc MG Midget engine with the 1098cc 1.25" SU? I would recommend fitting a 1.75" HIF44 - they suit a 1275 really well, and were used on Austin Metros and Maestros; they give a really smooth, progressive throttle response making d...

Good location for them - it would create a 'boom box' effect. I guess the sound is pretty good?

Also, I notice you appear to have 5-leaf (saloon) rear springs fitted, rather than the 7-leaf Traveller springs - any particular reason for that?

Thanks. And the holes in the bulkhead panel below the rear seat?

May I ask what the three nuts ahead of the front spring hanger on each side are for?

Yes, a saloon's and Traveller's engine backplates will be the same size as long as they are the same size engines.

However, the backplates did vary dependent on engine size - 948cc, 1098cc, or 1275cc.

No need to mess about with the brakes or hubs, if just replacing the trunnions. The lower ones are easily dealt with, by jacking up the rear half of the lower arm, having undone the four nuts and bolts on each side, lifting the front arm away. Then, with the rear lower half of the arm still supporte...

Sounds like a reasonable enough way of going about it. If doing just one side at a time, I usually just use a trolley jack to jack up the car to a reasonable height, lower the crossmember onto an axle stand, then use the trolley jack to raise the lower suspension arm. But your way sounds OK, so if y...

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?page=332

Ensure the jack used to raise the bottom arm is secure - most trolley jacks are pretty good for the job. Be aware that you have to jack up on the rear half of the lower arm, otherwise you won't be able to unbolt the front half!

Well, that certainly didn't apply to my Traveller, which was written off, but I arranged with the insurance company to buy it back and they removed it from the register, so I was able to get it repaired, put it through a normal MOT, and all was well again.

You need to negotiate with the insurer.

Wow - sky-high ride height!

The tyres look a bit flat, mind you...