Morris Minor Owners Club

has it got oil in it?

Dont get a cheap 2 pac respray, I know what you mean but when it comes to paintwork is there such a thing as cheap................................... acrylic dries from the top in. so bad filler work and defects can be covered easily. rather like ice on a frozen pond. you know the bed of the pond i...

You will need to prove that the vehicles you work on are veteran or classic vehicles where cellulose was an original material. If you want to keep your Morris original, there should be no question on what type of paint to use. Dont get a cheap 2 pac respray, unless your in to hot rodding. you got i...

i am talking about the pressure plate springs, not clutch plate.
if you cant live with it its new clutch time.

we need to consider the pressure plate springs. there are 3 of them. When a clutch plate is new, these springs are forced back, compressing them, giving max pressure on the drive plate. As the plate wears and gets thiner, the loading on the drive plate is reduced. The leavers compensate for this, by...

i think its a worn clutch, it may be running on the plate rivets.

where is your timing at?

i second that

chrisd87 wrote:Well it worked fine for me .

hi Chris, sometimes these nuts can be very difficult to undo, you never know untill you come to undo one. like the cam pully wheel nut. the best tool for these is the air rachet. just blows them away.

dont bare metal ye ha!

adjustable is no good as you can not hit it firmly with a soft mallet.

the bolts are put in that way for safty by the designers of the morris minor. if they undo they will not fall out.

good strong steam cleaner will remove all the swarf. some time engine rebuilder offer the cleaning service.usuall about a fiver.

did you have the big ends reground at the same time?

hi cliff.
if you leave the top one slightly tight, the losen the lower 2 it is possible to get a couple of degrees of movement. over the length it makes a differance, bot not much. this and a bit of gentle persuasion can help.

also. you might need the clutch alingment tool, it can be difficult if the clutch is not alligned, espically when fitting the gearbox from underneath. i always avoid removing the gearbox. too difficult and to dangerous. with no engine lift, i always remove the front, and get a trolly jack to support...

so what you do is pull the 2 wires from the indicator stalk under the dash that take the power to the bulbs. (sorry cant remember the colours). the stalk should be supplied with 12 volts all the time so when you switch it just sends the current to the required side. if you plug a wire and test bulb ...

i have a 10 disc thing going on in the boot.

if you are going to replace them, you need to find the original spot welds, and drill them out. there is a special drill bit for the job. the full arch will come off, leaving a nice surface to weld the new panel to.

have you checked the oil level in the gearbox?