Morris Minor Owners Club

Just for laughs now....a while ago I was out in the country in my 1955 Moggie and I stopped by the side of a quiet road to adjust the carb slightly when, to my surprise, a veritable parade of pre-war Austins came trundling past. The driver of the last car stopped and kindly asked me if I needed any ...

He he, well that is interesting as it suggests the interval between the two horns is a minor third. Of course, some of the 'scariest' horn sounds are some of those found on American locomotives - real banshee wails!

Thanks, chaps. If you look inside the "mouth" of the horn you will see a letter "L" for low or "H" for high. If you can then find the opposite to what you already have, you will have an enhanced sound such as the wealthy owners of Wolseleys and Rileys experienced! Unfor...

Hello peeps. Another of my 'idle questions' - is it possible to alter the pitch of the old snail shell type horns? I ask because I have found a spare in the back of my garage and wondered about fitting it in tandem with the existing horn, which is also the snail shell type. It would be nice to tune ...

Very dispiriting about the gearbox, Dermot - I well know the feeling of a seemingly endless task when things go wrong and you don't seem to be getting anywhere and have to start again. But I would echo Phil's advice about taking a break and doing something different and rewarding for a while and com...

"these days people just live in their own bubble and have no regard for other people" Sadly, this has become the norm in our society - not saying there aren't decent, unselfish people around, because, of course, there are - but the sense of community has been lost in many places. I won't ...

Yes, the braided flex is a nice finishing touch. I see you have a fine old clock as well. Maybe we should start a seperate thread for old light fittings, clocks, gramophones, wirelesses etc.

Murrayminor wrote: ↑Wed Aug 26, 2020 8:39 am Check that the choke is not sticking open.

Or that the mixture isn't set too rich......

For a minute there I thought I would be looking at a discussion around Bakelite light switches etc. (Crabtree) Can be if you like, Mike! Here's one of my spares, I have these switches in every room (except the bathroom), fixed to old wooden patresses . Interestingly, on one of the flaps to the cart...

If you do the test 'simmitc' suggests, the gauge should read 'full' again if the disconnected wire is then earthed somewhere.....

Happy days! And thanks for coming back. It is true that a general lack of tune can leave an engine under-performing and a good service and tune-up can improve things considerably, if overdue. Now enjoy driving your car!

SriVik wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 9:50 am Apparently now steel but aluminized. Anybody tried before??

Yes, I fitted an aluminized three-piece. Unfortunately, the baffles in the silencer blew loose after a few months - dunno if that's typical. But it does make a hell of a trumpeting noise!

OK the needle returns to 'empty' when ignition 'off' - as we would expect.
Are you saying that the only reading the gauge gives when ignition 'on' is 'full', irrespective of how much fuel is actually in the tank?

'Time traveller' - you say that when you "fill the tank the petrol gauge goes up to the top and sticks there." So, does it drop at all from reading 'full' before you next fill up? I would first check the connections at the gauge end and at the sender.

If they will look at it again, take one of them for a ride in the car to where you know it will exhibit symptoms so they can hear the sound for themselves. Its quite hard guessing from just a verbal description of a noise - one man's 'rattle' can be another's 'clatter'

Well, I wondered about that, but it doesn't really explain why the engine gets 'clattery' under load...... Like 'Dogsdad', I also wondered about head gasket - when mine went between cylinders 3 and 4, the engine was very clattery under load, but in his first post the OP says a compression test gave ...

Yes, its always interesting to hear conclusions to these issues - far too many threads just tail off in the middle, leaving people guessing. Good luck.

To be honest, as I mentioned near the beginning of this thread, your lack of power problem could be caused by a number of different things - ignition, fuel, mechnical. If I were you, as you are taking it to the garage on Friday anyway to have the timing checked, I would ask them to sort it. However,...

"it really has to be something relatively simple. Surely?" You were right, John! What a relief........if you are sure you want to go electronic, then keep your new points dizzy in the boot in case the electric one fails. Of course, if the RAC man has got the car running sweet, there's an ...

Are you sure the points gap is correct? If so, connect your voltmeter between the two LT terminals on the coil and turn the engine over with the crank handle - if the dizzy is working as it should, the reading will fluctuate between 12v and none as the points open and close.